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[TR] North Twin Sister- West Ridge 6/8/2004


ashw_justin

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Climb: North Twin Sister-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/8/2004

 

Trip Report:

Started at the MF Nooksack bridge around 7 am. Lugged my bike and snowboard up to mile 2.5 then onto the traverse road/trail. Ditched bike and hiked up the second road to the left (#9100, I believe). The ridge was snow-free and the route is even a hiking trail at times. I still managed to encounter some psuedo-rockclimbing out of stubborness to stay close to the ridgeline. Summit around 11 am, snowboarded down North Face which was kinda steep and slushy. Rocks beginning to show through at the top. Back to the car at 1 pm.

 

This is what I think is referred to "the obelisk" in the Becky Guide:

4525Obelisk-med.jpg

 

Shot of the North Face. Slush avys took out some of my tracks, but didn't get me.

4525Tracks.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Bike. Snowboard. Helmet.

 

Approach Notes:

The only real snow encountered is on the North Face.

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Skookum is the next peak south, been by the west ridge a couple times and it looks fun.

 

but has it been climbed? i don't have my beckey guide that well memorized. if not who wants to do it??? if it has what does it go at?

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I was wondering if there was any ice on the NE Face of South Twin... are we talking real ice or snow-ice? When is a good month? It looked pretty cool in the beginning of April but was most likely just frozen-snow-crust like everything else.

 

For the rock though I think Dru was talking about peaks to the south of S. Twin.

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You can see the peaks from the baker hwy. Just take a quick scenic drive to find out conditions. as with any peak in the PNW it can come in to condition whenver it has snow and cold temps. No it's not a serious ice route, but fun!

Actually the W,ridge of the N.Twin is an AWESOME winter mixed climb. not hard, but full on crampons and tools scratchin' ice and rock.

also to the left of the W.ridge of the N.twin there are a couple 1-2 pitch Wi3-4 flows that seem to form regularly.

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So I'm looking through the Beckey, there's some 10-pitch 5.6 on Cinderella Peak... thumbs_up.gif

 

Anybody done it lately? It doesn't sound all that sustained though, unfortunately. Probably a good solo...

 

I tried to solo it but from the w.side of the peaks they all look like little blobs with tons of passes so I got very disoriented (no names on the maps). After I got to a pass and looked around, no e.ridge looked very appealing at all so I just dicked around the mtns instead.

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Dude. you gotta do the full day N & S twin sister solo. up w ridge of the north twin, descend south gullies to basin. up and over N ridge of south twin to sisters glacier, traverse glacier to NE ridge, up NE ridge to summit of south twin, descend w ridge of south. super fun, all there. bigdrink.gif i'm not sure, but I don't think that's the obleisk.

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Well if I was going to do both Twins in a day I would try to do it with a snowboard: climb W ridge S Twin, down NE Face, up S ridge N Twin, down N Face N Twin. But that NE Face S Twin looks like a pretty serious descent and I think I missed the right time of year as evidenced by the huge bergshrund.

 

GlacierSouthTwin.jpg

 

I bet Skykilo would do it anyway. Dang. Now he's gonna go snatch the line!

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That's looking pretty prime. You call that a huge bergschrund? What did you say Mike?

Don't get your panties in a bunch.
yellaf.gif

I'll bet benman woulda carried someone else's skis up over that schrund.

BenFourSkis.jpg

All apologies to Layton for dropping his name in a ski related post.

Thank you for allowing physicist skier to post.

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