Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Harm

Rainier Conditions - Upper Mountain Snowpack?

Recommended Posts

I was wondering if anybody had any first.. second or thirdhand for that matter, info on the upper mountain snowpack in the last week or so. Looks like the weather forecast has some new snowfall potential this week.

 

I was considering taking a group up Success Cleaver on the 11th and carrying over to DC and I'm starting to consider waiting for further snowpack consolidation. A couple of friends of mine were going to attempt DC after the massive memorial day snow dump and wisely turned around at Muir to have a beer in the parking lot instead due to some nasty/thick/easily triggered slabs formed on a hard ice layer in some pit tests they dug.

 

I'd appreciate any info anybody has. Thanks.

fruit.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The most recent TRs are probably going to be it for your beta. There hasn't really been any weather windows that have allowed anyone to climb, unless you want to climb in conditions that you described.

 

Question: Why are you carrying over to DC?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re: Carrying over to DC.

 

The group wanted to entertain the possibility of camping on the Summit, weather and time permitting and also truncate some time off of the descent by staging a car at Paradise. I guess we could entertain downclimbing the Kautz as well but not knowing the condition of the ramp near the ice cliff, I would be more hesitant to down climb it not having that beta from the way up.

 

Additionally, from the few people I've talked to about Success Cleaver I've been told that down climbing it can be a little hairy with all the exposure on some of the high traverses in questionable footing. DC would probably be the best choice (save Ingraham direct which I've heard is essentially done for the season) and most straight forward for the group composition in my opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're going to stage a car anyway, why not the Emmons descent? Easy, and should be well wanded with a track soon. Be kinda neat to climb over the whole thing...

 

-Fear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Camping on the summit is sweet! thumbs_up.gif Sounds like a fun trip man. The only problem in descending the DC is the crowd factor which you wouldn't find on the Success or the Kautz. The crowd factor can also make for a preety hairy descent especially when the RMI crowds go bowling for peeps with rocks on the DC.

hellno3d.gif

 

Edit: This year we had an unusually high amount of high elevation snow pack and unseasonably cold temps and low freezing levels recently would probably keep that snowpack pretty solid. There has been a little bit of new snow up there recently and it will need a couple days of solid weather to consolidate.

Edited by Dulton

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dulton,

 

I hear what you are saying Re: RMI crowds on DC. I had a "wonderful" encouter with some of their groups about two years ago (I think) when the Emmons route traversed far far left somewhere near 13,000 or so to join the DC route to the crater rim. It was a mass of humanity, one particular crack that needed to be navigated around in an s-shape was quite a particular cluster.

 

The original plan was to be camping on the summit overnight such that we could pick our descent time, i.e. time our descent such that the RMI groups were on their way up and well clear of the top of the cleaver. Maybe that is wishful thinking, I have not been on DC lately to truly appreciate the crowds I guess.

 

I had been toying with staging a car at White River as Fear suggested and that might be a way to go for route conditions, crowds and being able to claim we climbed up and over the mountain. I was toying with the idea but had failed to convince myself that I wanted to do that long walk out to White River again, I think I've burnt myself out on that trail/approach having done that route too many times in the past couple seasons.

 

Anyway, I think we are going to put the trip off a week or so, I have not heard much good information regarding the snowpack consolidation but have heard several bad experiences. We have time to wait.. so I think we will give it a week or so and try and get up Success before it melts out and perhaps get some nice weather days to boot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll second the camping on the summit sweetness! Stayed a night up there after doing the Fuhrer Finger 2 summers ago. Awesome (overused word, but totally appropriate in this case) experience. Descended the DC w/o too much difficulty re: RMI hordes. bigdrink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×