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billcoe

Best Helmet -recommendations?

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Well, after 32 years I've decieded to get a helmet for rock climbing. (Have an MSR for mountains, its not comfortable).

 

Helmet technology has gotten better and I have the money for the very best. I'd like to get one that would withstand the the "Microbrew Beer Bottle tossed off of Rocky Butte onto your head test".

 

Has anyone done any extensive research for helmets fairly recently (last year)?

 

If not, love to hear your opinions anyway!

 

smile.gif

 

Thanks:

Bill

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I second the HB-dyneema for top of the line. $90+ You might also be interested in the less expensive Camp Silver Star. $65 at mzone.com. You should also check out climbing.com and read their helmet reviews.

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I have the Petzl Ecrin Roc. Its an awesome helmet, with good adjustment range and comfort. Plus you can store first aid supplies, etc, in the upper part of the helmet so you don't have to carry them on your harness.

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hugh banner makes a pretty cool lid.

i wear a petzl ecrin something and it is okay.

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I've got the HB Dyneema and it's great for long stuff - super durable and pretty comfortable. The elastic headlamp retaining system does leave something to be desired though. Check out the Elios as well if you're looking for a traditional hard shell helmet - the headlamp system Petzl uses is great. I've also just gotten myself one of the Petzl Meteors. The "bike helmet" climbing helmet. Wanted something super light for day trips and hot weather. I've got to say this thing is awesome. No headlamp support but man it's light and cool.

 

Personal Rviews aside, are you looking to just get something on your head or for the "safest" helmet out there. I've been involved in a lot of discussion regarding helmets and safety and some interesting stuff has come up. Bottom line though is the soft shell foam helmets are generally going to provide you with the most protection but are the least durable. Hence my ownership of the Dyneema AND Foam meteor.

 

Other info - UIAA certified is more stringent than the CE test (means less impact is translated to you head)

good read HERE - PDF as well

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I have the Petzl Ecrin Roc. Its an awesome helmet, with good adjustment range and comfort. Plus you can store first aid supplies, etc, in the upper part of the helmet so you don't have to carry them on your harness.

 

You need to be careful if doing this rig - the energy absorption in this type of helmet comes from the space between the webbing support and the top of the helmet - if your first aid kit is too large/firm it can transmit the impact force directly to your head essentially negating the helmet you're wearing.

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I had a Petzl Ecrin Roc until it took a jumper off a ledge (dumb move, clumsy climbing parter). I replaced it with a BD Half Dome - a bit more closer-fitting and less noticeable than the Ecrin, which makes me much more likely to wear it, plus a bit more protection of the back of the head - the decision had come down to between the half dome and Petzl Elios, but the BD happened to fit my head a bit better.

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i hate my petzl. the way it fits on my head is a nightmare. i can't see when i climb w/it. i have to crank my head way back to see even a little ways above me.

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I had a Petzl Ecrin Roc until it took a jumper off a ledge (dumb move, clumsy climbing parter). I replaced it with a BD Half Dome - a bit more closer-fitting and less noticeable than the Ecrin, which makes me much more likely to wear it, plus a bit more protection of the back of the head - the decision had come down to between the half dome and Petzl Elios, but the BD happened to fit my head a bit better.

 

Damn - one last thing that these guys mention - Make sure you like the fit! If you don't you won't wear the the thing and then, what's the point?

 

If you haven't noticed - I'm a helmet fan. I've just been involved in a lot of sports (Biking and Skiing specifically) where I once was a "Helmets are stupid" guy. BUT - I've had experiences wearing them that probably saved my life / kept me from being a veggie. Now I actually perform far worse if I don't have one (forgot the thing in another car etc) To each his own of course but I'm a big believer in them. thumbs_up.gif

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another vote for the HB dyneema (sp?) helmet. it actually weighs less than my foam elios helmet and IIRC, the impact resistance is significantly better than the ecrin or half dome. my only complaint is that the plastic pieces in the suspension system can poke you in the back of the head sometimes, which is uncomfortable. can be fixed with some creative application of athletic tape.

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Yeah, my folks were soooo pleased to discover all my preferred sports 'required' helmets - climbing, biking, skiing, motorcycling...

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Matt M- thanks for the heads up, I had thought of that, and all I ever pack up in the helmet are smaller items that take up very little room (gauze, bandages, etc). That'd be pretty ironic if my first aid kit ended up being the cause of my injury, huh?

 

One helmet that I will warn you against is the Petzl Meteor. I used this helmet for a few months when I started climbing, and I never got used to it. The fit was bad, and it didn't feel like it offered much protection up front or on the sides. As everyone has stated, though, make sure you buy a helmet that fits you well. My Ecrin fits me like a glove, and becuase of this, it's not hard to convince myself to wear it should the need arise.

Edited by Ryan

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I had this BD halfdome for like 1 month before I somehow lost it. I loved that helmet. And it was orange to boot!

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I've used Meteor four years, entirely based on its weight, & seems like the screw jobs ought to provide pretty good fit for most people. It doesn't seem as widely distributed as formerly & I wonder why. Also, I hear it suggested (in Twight's book?) that the thing would be trashed more quickly in a barrage than other types, & is thus less helpful in survival. Certainly rockfall doesn't only come one rock at a time.

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Yeah, I don't doubt it. But its in my pack when I most appreciate the weight. Petzl warns against sitting on the thing, but it does seem to pass various safety test criteria & after all, no helmet can protect from more than a relatively small impact.

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i've cracked my bd half dome by sitting on it whilst in my pack...guess my ass is heavier than my head; not what many people would have figured.

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Buy the Petzl Meteor, Simond -w. face shield,or the Grivel Cap- w. face shield if you want to look like a Stylin' Euro Uber climber. When mixed climbing, be sure to flip the shield down casually as needed as if you are blowing chalk "Edlinger" style on a rock route

or-

Buy a Neon Yellow Edelrid if you are joining the mounties (standard issue) and be sure to put your athleitc tape name tag on the front as you preach to your group about a "dangerous" technique that a climber at the same crag is using.

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i like the petzl ecrin roc. it's a little on the heavy side, but the benefits outweigh that. it has way more fit adjustability than a foam-molded helmet and is easy to adjust on the fly for a good fit regardelss of whether you want to wear a hat or not. (it also works with high ponytails for the long-haired gals and hippies in the crowd - yay!) it's beefy and will stand up to much abuse, and it's also one of the more comfortable climbing helmets i've ever tried. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

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