texplorer Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 Recently I have began to delve into the idea of putting up more routes and have a question about how to rate these climbs. So when you put up a new route do you instantly give it the rating you think it deserves, give people an estimate of what you think it is (5.10+ to 5.11-), or let them totally decide assuming it isn't dangerous for that climber. I usually give the estimate of what its rated and then get their opinion as it rates to the crag in general. I was just curious as to what the "proper" etiquette was for this matter being there is so much "rating inflation" hype going on these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 Let bob climb it so he can rate it...that way we won't get a diatribe on the internet about how sally everyone is!!!! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 rate route on how it would be to onsite the climb... and give it a ++ if it has a little dirt involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 just rate it 5.8 no matter what grade it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 4th class beyotch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 I think you're on the right track -- give it a slash rating and then let some opinions filter in. In talking to a few other route setters, this seems to be the standard practice. It might get easier as it gets cleaned up, or it might get harder . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 I say rate them what you they are rated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 I say rate them what you they are rated! Yeah, what he said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 I say rate them what you they are rated! Yeah, what he said. Rated rate are they you say them what I! Said he, what yeah. Ditto. The opinions will follow. The muck will be raked. Ignore it and put up another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 "The important thing to consider, when establishing a new route, is that the bolts are placed close together." Â - 'AmazingCo, Inc. Rock Climbing Information Omnibus' Vol. 17, p. 192 (c 2001, AmazingCo Publishing, Biloxi, MS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 I would rather sandbag a bit than have my climbs downgraded  People will often find an easier way than you did, so err on the cautious side.  Split grades work well for the unsure, especially if there is height dependency.  Cleaning the cruxes REALLY WELL helps maintain grade consistency  My $.02  E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 It's easier for me to rate stuff near my limit so I'd try to find "test subjects" climbing at or near your routes level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 It's easier for me to rate stuff near my limit so I'd try to find "test subjects" climbing at or near your routes level. The most objective ratings will come from climbers doing your route at close to their limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 26, 2004 Author Share Posted May 26, 2004 Thanks for the input everyone. DFA, my routes up to this point don't need bolts except for an occasional anchor. Â I guess I'll make Dru and CrzyPlshBob happy and make it a 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 good!! I just can't stand to hear bob whine anymore!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 You could go the Sharma route and refuse to grade. Some might call this a sandbag, but perhaps a grade should be established in consensus from the first, second, and third ascent parties. There been some wicked V and VI activity in Valley in the past few years where the FA will only tell you where the route starts, no topo, precise route description, or rating. Makes following ascents as spicy as the first (except you know that the route MUST go somewhere). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Â and is this supposed to be a less egotistical and chestbeating way to "rate" your climbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Hi Carsten: I always felt (that for me) ya should just tell people, "I think it's about......(insert grade here)" and be as close as real as possible. Â The other real pertainant info I like to both desiminate and recieve is this: if the pro really sucks, tell the dweebs like myself who are not kicking ass at your level so we don't jump on it and die! Â Now....if I can sneak this question in...where ya climbing these days for new routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 ratings are for those in need of external validation. i mean: they are for fags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 if it's easy, rate it 5.8 or below. if it's hard, rate it 5.9+. that should take care of PolishBob's rating rants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erd Posted May 31, 2004 Share Posted May 31, 2004 Godzilla... 5a HVS E1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted May 31, 2004 Share Posted May 31, 2004 You chuffer, "E" grades as in "E1" are subdivisions of "extremely severe" which is the adjectival grade above HVS (hard very severe) so it's either HVS or E1, but not both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash Posted May 31, 2004 Share Posted May 31, 2004 rating are for sissys, just don't rate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 rate it: hard, pretty hard, and pretty damn hard don't rate anything that's not hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Use a color-coding system to simplify this whole mess. You know, yellows and mauves and ochres. Â If this doesn't work, try music. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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