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addie

I need new climbing shoes-- bad

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I love my boreals but I can no longer resole them- they are way over used and way to old at this point. Any deals around the net? i need a new pair asap.

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mmm sorry. i had some spares in good condition but i think the smallest i can offer is maybe a 42

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Leavenworth Mountain Sports has been advertising cheap shoes on this board. And REI has the Mythos for $89 instead of $120.

 

drC

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HF is much softer and stickier. It does indeed wear off a bit quicker, but it still takes 4-5 days a week for 9 months to go through the toe.

 

You know how C4 gets that sort of glassy look after a couple of months? Mainly I've seen this on moccasymms, not ansazi laceups or velcros. HF never gets like that. Since its so soft as well you can REALLY feel the rock. You can put your foot on a little granite crystal and feel that suckah.

 

I think right now the only shoes offered with HF are Dragons (discontinued but can still get them from 5.10), V10s (these shoes are the shit for steep sport and bouldering), and T-Rocks (lace up shoe, liked mine a lot but they ripped so 5.10 is sending me a pair of Anasazi Lace ups).

 

This 5.10 promotion has been brought to you by RuMr and Distel Co.

 

Rudy thinks the ansazi lace up is the best shoe ever made.

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Get the mythos! I went from boreals to these a couple years ago and it was unbelievable. Still a comfortable shoe, but climb way, way better. The rubber is a bit soft, so you'll need to resole them in a couple years, but worth it imho. Love these shoes.

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What type of climbing do you mostly do Addie?? I've heard great things about the mythos for trad and alpine, and negative things if you climb a bunch of sport.

 

I would go for anasazi velcros, best all around shoe ever.

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I would go for anasazi velcros, best all around shoe ever.

 

I second that call. thumbs_up.gif

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Unless you plan on doing alot of "at your limit" type routes, I'd give serious consideration to the old 5.10 Hueco's with the EVA heel pad. The closeouts are about $75, FiveTen has them on the sale section of their website up to size (mens) 6.5 which should be around a 39. So a 38 should be between a 5.5 and a 6. They have both of these sizes in stock.

 

These things are SUPER comfortable and good all arounders. Once you climb in one of these type padded heel, somewhat relaxed fit shoes, you'll reach for them first most of the time. Other shoes in this vein are the Scarpa marathon, new fiveten climbalot, and surely sportiva has something similar. I've climbed to very close to my limit in these things, and they get the call more than my anasazis, moccasyms, vipers, Miuras, matrix, and focus combined. I prefer multi-pitch trad routes for reference.

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If you're looking for a substitute for Anasazi velcro, that it more comfortable and climbs cracks better, try the Madrock Frenzy. Edges just as well. I have both. The Frenzy was specifically deisgned to stand on a dime, the toebox is stiff. I got mine for $75. The rubber didn't last as long, that is the downfall with Madrock. Get it resoled with some thicker Stealth HF.

 

frenzy-lacebig.jpg

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I would say I do almost completely sport climbing with minimal crack use and some gym use as the winter months come. I loved my boreals but if I remember correctly they weren't cheap

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maybe get some 5.10 moccasyms. 90 bucks, comfy, soft, great for gym and sport, especially smith because you can smear on those nubbins and toe in pockets.

 

still suggest anasazi velcro though.....

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Get the mythos! I went from boreals to these a couple years ago and it was unbelievable. Still a comfortable shoe, but climb way, way better. The rubber is a bit soft, so you'll need to resole them in a couple years, but worth it imho. Love these shoes.

 

Mythos S U C K... thumbs_down.gif

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I would go for anasazi velcros, best all around shoe ever.

 

I second that call. thumbs_up.gif

 

hmmm i think the lace-up is a better all around shoe...

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hmm, Ill watch for sales on those anasazi's and buy them then.. if they ever go on sale? ....

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There is a pair of sz38 Anasazi lace-ups in really good shape at Second Ascent right now for $35. Good price! Wish they fit me.

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PUSH HERE FOR THE SHIZNET wazzup.gif

 

You'd best go size them before you order because its a hassle to exchange...

 

Also, they are a decent price in canada but most shops won't ship them...so i guess you'll have to make a trip to squish w/ Muff...

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uuuhhhh, soooooo my free (hehe, suckers) anasazi lace ups came in the mail yesterday, I really don't need to say anything besides that I agree with Rudy now.. thumbs_up.gif

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I've had 2 pair of the Madrock Frenzy. I really like them and yes the rubber does wear fast. I ran out of time to get my first pair resoled before a big climbing trip so I just bought another pair. I've climbed 8 hard days in my new shoes and I'm starting to get holes already. Which leads me to the question "Where/Who is the best resoler around Portland"?

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