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I need new climbing shoes-- bad


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HF is much softer and stickier. It does indeed wear off a bit quicker, but it still takes 4-5 days a week for 9 months to go through the toe.

 

You know how C4 gets that sort of glassy look after a couple of months? Mainly I've seen this on moccasymms, not ansazi laceups or velcros. HF never gets like that. Since its so soft as well you can REALLY feel the rock. You can put your foot on a little granite crystal and feel that suckah.

 

I think right now the only shoes offered with HF are Dragons (discontinued but can still get them from 5.10), V10s (these shoes are the shit for steep sport and bouldering), and T-Rocks (lace up shoe, liked mine a lot but they ripped so 5.10 is sending me a pair of Anasazi Lace ups).

 

This 5.10 promotion has been brought to you by RuMr and Distel Co.

 

Rudy thinks the ansazi lace up is the best shoe ever made.

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Get the mythos! I went from boreals to these a couple years ago and it was unbelievable. Still a comfortable shoe, but climb way, way better. The rubber is a bit soft, so you'll need to resole them in a couple years, but worth it imho. Love these shoes.

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Unless you plan on doing alot of "at your limit" type routes, I'd give serious consideration to the old 5.10 Hueco's with the EVA heel pad. The closeouts are about $75, FiveTen has them on the sale section of their website up to size (mens) 6.5 which should be around a 39. So a 38 should be between a 5.5 and a 6. They have both of these sizes in stock.

 

These things are SUPER comfortable and good all arounders. Once you climb in one of these type padded heel, somewhat relaxed fit shoes, you'll reach for them first most of the time. Other shoes in this vein are the Scarpa marathon, new fiveten climbalot, and surely sportiva has something similar. I've climbed to very close to my limit in these things, and they get the call more than my anasazis, moccasyms, vipers, Miuras, matrix, and focus combined. I prefer multi-pitch trad routes for reference.

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If you're looking for a substitute for Anasazi velcro, that it more comfortable and climbs cracks better, try the Madrock Frenzy. Edges just as well. I have both. The Frenzy was specifically deisgned to stand on a dime, the toebox is stiff. I got mine for $75. The rubber didn't last as long, that is the downfall with Madrock. Get it resoled with some thicker Stealth HF.

 

frenzy-lacebig.jpg

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Get the mythos! I went from boreals to these a couple years ago and it was unbelievable. Still a comfortable shoe, but climb way, way better. The rubber is a bit soft, so you'll need to resole them in a couple years, but worth it imho. Love these shoes.

 

Mythos S U C K... thumbs_down.gif

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I've had 2 pair of the Madrock Frenzy. I really like them and yes the rubber does wear fast. I ran out of time to get my first pair resoled before a big climbing trip so I just bought another pair. I've climbed 8 hard days in my new shoes and I'm starting to get holes already. Which leads me to the question "Where/Who is the best resoler around Portland"?

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