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[TR] Mt. Hood- Hogsback 5/15/2004


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Climb: Mt. Hood-Hogsback


Date of Climb: 5/15/2004


Trip Report:

Our party left the timerline lodge at just after midnight on Saturday morning with our thousand closest friends under clear skies and relatively warm weather. Routefinding was not an issue due to the seemingly hundreds of headlamps heading north.


Clouds rolled in between three and four obscuring the view of the moon and sunrise.


As the bergschund was completely open we roped up and skirted it to the left as did most other climbers. One brave party chose to save time from waiting in line and chose to cross the 'shrund by going straight over it. Check out the picture below!


We got to the summit after sunrise just in time for the skies to clear offering an absolutely killer view.


The summit was windy and we were exhausted so we snapped a couple of pictures and started the trip back down.


Past the hogsback on the decent the weather turned and we made the slog back down in whiteout conditions. Snow warmed up and became a real slog although we never did really poshole.



Gear Notes:

Used standard fare including ice axe, crampons, rope--although some people were not roped in.


Approach Notes:

Snow was in good condition for cramponing all the way to the top. Coming back down later in the day the snow softed up substantially.

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Plan on about 5-7 hours up... really speedy folks go faster and slow climbers take longer, but this would be average pace.


Also, stay to the left (West) of triangle moraine area up above the top of the Palmer lift.


I was climbing with friends Saturday AM and talked to a guy who was heading East towards Wyeast and dropped unroped into a crevasse covered only by a sagging snow bridge. He was only about 50-100' off the boot pack below triangle moraine. His partner threw him a rope and he was able to climb out with 2 tools and one messed up ankle and made his way down the mountain OK.


You probably saw all the fuss yesterday about the climber in the same area who fell 50' in a similar slot and had to be rescued. Info and a picture of the hole here:




Bottom line..... there are more man eaters over by the east edge of the snow field (White River side) than are typical. Staying towards the center of the snow field and passing triangle morraine to the West is advised.

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