EWolfe Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I m curious about the newer "lightweight slings" like the dyneema. Is there a different fiber in them that makes them so much stronger? Is it more resistant to UV breakdown? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 dyneema is the same as spectra. the fiber is an ultrahigh molecular weight ultrahigh density (i.e. straight chain polymer) poly ethylene. same shit as a sandwich bag but different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 polymers that contain double bonds, in particular, are sensitive to oxidation. It's similar to the process by which vegetable oil becomes rancid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I m curious about the newer "lightweight slings" like the dyneema. Is there a different fiber in them that makes them so much stronger? Is it more resistant to UV breakdown? I would say less resistent to UV. Regardless, they don't take knots, well, and they are too expensive to use for that purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 but wait a sec  dark coloured materials will absorb more and reflect less UV than light coloured materials and therefore wil deteriorate FASTER  all you "dark coloured slings are easier to check for damage" guys yeah and you will have to replace them twice as often too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I'm going to rub sunscreen into all my webbing and set up little parasols above every rap anchor I make. AMGA approved parasols, that is, with little cute AMGA rope/mtn logos on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad_CA Posted May 19, 2004 Author Share Posted May 19, 2004 Science is cool. I'm too lazy to go through the rigors of learning very much, but its cool some of you are proficient and apply it to climbing! kudos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 I'm going to rub sunscreen into all my webbing and set up little parasols above every rap anchor I make. AMGA approved parasols, that is, with little cute AMGA rope/mtn logos on them. Â I blame COBRA for boosting up the UV with that damn weather controllere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I blame COBRA for boosting up the UV with that damn weather controllere. huh? cobra has something to do with health insurance coverage after you lose your job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 hah! shows what you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 hah! shows what you know. obviously not much. massive amounts of meth will do that to a person. what is your excuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badvoodoo Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Wait, Cobra has infiltrated our healthcare system? Guess that would explain "preferred healthcare providers". Cobra Commander's evil knows no bounds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 MUWAHAHA your preferred healthcare provider is COOOBBRRRAAA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 COBRA is the last refuge of the desperate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 hah! shows what you know. Â Â "...and knowing is half the battle." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Actually Cobra is so 5 minutes ago. BLUE LASER is the hot villain nowadays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I think there was an accident on Temple Ridge where it was thought that a rappel anchor sling failed just a couple of years ago. I don't remember if the sling broke or the knot came untied or what. That is the ONLY time I have ever heard of such a thing, though. Â That was me. Partner went back two weeks later. He could not find sling. We do not know if sling broke, if sling came untied, or if it came off of the rock. But I do know this, it was two or three previous slings I rapped off of. They looked good. I pulled on the slings twice to make sure they were solid--and pulled on the rope once when it was through the slings in the direction of the rappel before my partner rapelled. My partner rapped safely off of the slings. Then it was my turn..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 It was my understanding that you went on one new sling you had tied. So you went on two or three old slings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 It was my understanding that you went on one new sling you had tied. So you went on two or three old slings? Â I went on two or three old slings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Chockstones can shift and let the slings slip past and look no different afterwards. If this had happened the rope would still be through the slings and they wouldn't have blown away by the helicopter. Since they were not found, this means they must have broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 not necessarily sherlock..what if the chockstone itself broke into little pieces or the slings were chopped on the way down by another rock falling on them? sheesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I think it would look different if it broke into little pieces... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Â What if the rope momentarily parted like those metal rings magicians use and then fused back together right after passing through the slings? You didn't happen to say "Abracadabra" or anything like that while rappelling did you? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I think it would look different if it broke into little pieces... Â from what i have heard no one has looked to see if the slung rock was still there only looked for the slings. catbirdseat's logic of "if it was not A it must be B" ignores the less likely but not ruled out possiblities C, D, E etc. this error in logic leads to the possibility of false conclusions and further accidents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Chockstones can shift and let the slings slip past and look no different afterwards. If this had happened the rope would still be through the slings and they wouldn't have blown away by the helicopter. Since they were not found, this means they must have broken. Â When I fell, the rope was everywhere. In a rush, my partner had to use the rope to do another rappel further down. No one was focusing on how the accident happened or looking for slings, just on what to do next. Did he coil the rope or just drag it to the next anchor? I can't remember as well as my partner, we were too focused on a rescue. Â Another probable answer at the time was the rope breaking.....but since my partner had used the rope and brought the rope back home we knew the rope did not break. Â If the sling was broken at the anchor, or if the sling was down 30 feet around where I was (becuase of an anchor shift) then either way it still would have blown away becuase of the downdraft of the helicopter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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