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soloing the success cleaver, safest descent route


jorvack

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Yeah success looks gorgeous. So would you go back down the dc alone? I was thinking of carrying my my glacier line (30m) and then hitchhiking down from the top. But would love to run down the thing un ropedand do the whole climb in 24hrs

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I was there a few years ago... Go as EARLY in June as possible. I'd go in May if I did it again. By the time I got there it was just endless loose shitty scree and volcanic dust. Descend the route. Much safer if you're solo.

 

Keep in mind there are crevasses up top. None on the cleaver though.

 

-Fear

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No. I made it to about 10k. The past 2k were clawing and falling up knee-deep volcanic dust and scree. At that point I turned to my partner and said "Let's do another route..." He agreed.

 

People I talked to that had done it said descending it was no big deal as long as you wanded it well on the way up. Kinda like walking off the edge of a beachball was how it was described....

 

-Fear

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