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RMI trip report.


Rich

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Yes I know this will probably result in a bash RMI thread, but I know there are those out there considering signing on with a guide service. It’s late but here goes.

 

I went up June 3 – 7 for the Muir seminar. Took the seminar to gain some knowledge and experience to take with me on future climbs. Getting to the top wasn’t my primary goal which is good as we didn’t make it. The guides showed us a lot, but we didn’t get much time to practice. For instance we only spent half a day practicing crevasse rescue. But it’s all good as I can add that experience to book knowledge and feel good about going up with friends and practicing. I know that is how most of you learned in the first place, but I don’t have any good climbing friends. I’m looking to go up again with some guys in late July. I don’t know them, just had a couple of phone conversations with them, we were put in contact by a mutual friend. I don’t think I would feel comfortable with going with them without RMI and I’m not sure they would take me in the first place.

 

RMI improved my crampon technique, showed me how to build anchor systems and rappelling. They also taught rope travel, traveling on fixed rope and with running belays.

 

All of the guides were great, had a lot of knowledge. They were good about visiting the hut each evening and just letting us pick their brains. I picked up a lot of little tips and ideas on everything from eating & packing to keeping warm.

 

On summit day we reached about 12,400 ft when we were alerted that a rope team of 3 that was just behind my rope team had fallen into a crevasse. This was the couple that was going to get married on the summit and their guide. We descended to the scene and watched the guides in action as they did what they had taught for real. We then downclimbed to Ingraham flats where we collapsed and buried a tent to prepare for the Chinook. The tent belonged to the two climbers who were later found dead that day.

 

Some things I took from the experience was first, a respect for the mountain. Secondly was the importance of knowing the skills of those on your rope. While on a traverse behind the top of Cathedral Rocks, the second on the rope fell. The third also peeled off. Rob, the guide, was leading and arrested as did I, bringing up the rear. The second in quit at the Flats. On the headwall the third guy wanted to quit, he was skittish about the wind and slope and worried about falling. Lastly I got far enough to know that I can do it and am confident enough in my skill level to hook up with some guys. I think it was money well spent and am looking forward to July and getting up that thing.

 

Rich

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Rich, you are a fool, how could you try to gain experience with a guide service. RMI, o gee wiz! You deserve a horsecock or something....

I am just joshing with you in trying to keep in the spirit on many contribitors on the board and so you would not be disappointed that you were not harrassed. ANYWAY, right on! Sounds like you had a good experience.

My 1st mountain was Rainier in 1995 with RMI. 5 day seminar. Being that the closest mountain with a glacier on it is over 2000 miles away, I figured a guide service was the fastest & safest way to gain knowledge. You get to cover great deal. What might have taken you several trips into what can be a dangerous environment, you get to do in one trip. I was one of 15 clients and 7 guides. 4 guides had been to Everest, 3 had summited. I was the only client that was a rock climber, the rest were hikers. Most of our party summited in stellar weather. I felt I learned a great deal. There is nothing wrong with learning the proper way to do things in the mountains from those with a great deal of experience. Then tweek your style after that. At least you have an idea what is right and wrong. I also wished we had spent more time on crevasse rescue. Luckly since then, I have able to get myself out of the crevasses I have gone into.

Build on the information RMI has given you by reading and getting out there. "The body can achieve what the mind can conceive."

Climb on.

Jedi

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