olyclimber Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 Anyone here have Dan make them a Zero SARC? What options/configuration did you go for? How is it working out for you? I've got an appointment to get myself some bling-bling next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I have a SARC that I had built with the Zero SARC hip belt. I had it built as simply as possible with the lightest fabric he offered and its snaffle proof. I love it for Alaska, but is a bit much for the Cascades. The Zero SARC would be the shizzle for the Cascades I would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I have a SARC, about 10 years old, and I love it. I don't have any of the attachments, and I got it without the zipper on the back, but I had Dan put a semi-circular zipper on the side. He didn't like "messing up" his design that way, but I find it handy for stuffing a down sweater in and out of the pack at rest stops. The pack carries a week's worth of gear for an Alaskan alpine climb just fine, and it also does very well for day trips with a lot of junk. I can throw a rope, rack, and half-rack in there just fine, and for summit climbs I remove the aluminum stays and it climbs pretty well, too. Even without molded foam and fancy stiffeners, the McHale double-buckle waist belt is the most comfortable I have ever used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwills Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 i have a super-SARC and love it. a friend had a zero-SARC built last year. full spectra beautiful pack it is. you could watch a snaffle try to chew through it for hours don't get the zippered access. adds weight and something else to go wrong. get the climbing belt as well - padded belt on a pack that small isn't necessary. get the 'summit flap' so you can leave the lid behind. have fund and enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDude Posted May 8, 2004 Share Posted May 8, 2004 I have 2 McHale packs and love them. On a 0-SARC I would stay as simple as possible. One layer of lenomesh, 3/4'' musical compression straps (they're removeable), no zip access, summit flap (which I use 75% of the time), single layer bottom?, climbing belt (works great with a harness). You may also want to think about getting the standard SARC size. It's just more versitle (ie: winter gear). You can always have him make it a bit smaller in circumference so the volume is betten the two models. I'd also think about not getting an 'extension skirt.' These always annoyed me on other packs. It's a great way to save weight and get into your pack faster. I had him extend the main body of the pack a few inches to compensate for the slight loss in pack hight/volume. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 8, 2004 Share Posted May 8, 2004 Dude is right that the extension does hamper getting in and out of your pack, and it does add some weight, but I think it is a plus in general. Similarly, I'd opt for the double-thickness bottom if you are going to be doing much mountaineering where sitting glissades will be involved. The waist belt, too, is a place where I would not skimp on weight. I have had no problems with my standard (fat) waist belt getting in the way of my climbing harness and the way it carries a heavy load is phenomenal. In my opinion, the weight of your (empty) pack is not a major concern. You can go for every bell and whistle in the book and the difference will only be an extra pound or two. I like a plain pack with just two daisy chains up the back because these are not in the way when you are not using them and they tend not to snag on bushes or on the trunk of your car as much as those specialized things for ice tools, wands, crampons or a snow shovel. Also the daisy chains more easily adapt for carring the odd item like the folding chair or the ski boots that don't fit inside your pack, but its an issue of flexibility and a clean outside profile more than one of weight. It is all that extra gear and food or the completely unnecessary tent that makes your load heavy, not the extra few ounces that you can shave off by trimming down the extension skirt or the waistbelt or the other "options" on your pack. (I do pull out the stays and remove the top flap, sometimes pull off the side straps, and occasionally even remove the waist belt to lighten up the pack for a summit climb, though.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearup5000 Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Things to get/consider: -YOU MUST get a fully padded waistbelt. Forget a webbing one -Double bottom 100%. Spectra bottom is nice, but $$$. -2l summit flap WITH a zipper. A zipper doesn't hurt. -Get the lenomesh pad. It comes off, and in hot weather you'll appreciate it. -Get the Kangaroo Pocket shown here: http://www.mchalepacks.com/ultralight/Detail%20Hi%20Rez%20Pages/S-SarcP&G_GreenGrid_9x11.htm Just make sure you get the right size pack. 3500-400 cu. in. seems a good size to me, but it depends on your uses. The kangaroo pocket is invaluable, very handy, and very light. I know I made the case for it when discussing all brands of backpacks i.e. My Mchale would benefit if it had a kangaroo type pocket like Arc'teryx. McHale was involved in those forums too, so yeah, who knows if it helped. What matters is it's a great feature. As for fabric choice, the page is gone but when you talk to him he'll get you sorted. Btw, I have an Inex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardKorry Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 The last thing is get it the way you want it because you won't wear it out. My main complaint about my 1986 Alpineer is that damn thing won't wear out so I can get a new one with the 20 years worth of improvements he's made. Actually I have updated the belt and the suspension over the years. I have the kangaroo pocket as an add-on that I use on various packs. I love it. I agree with MattP, don't sweat the ounce here or there. His packs can carry loads really well. I did a 8 day trip in the Olympics w/ ~60lbs. It was heavy but I was amazed how good 60lbs felt and how hiking 20 miles with it didn't kill me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearup5000 Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 ^^^Exactly, I just figure, if the zero sarc is listed at 2700-3300 cubes, see if the 3300-4000 is doable. I mean, a 4000 CU in pack can't weight that much more, and the price is virtually the same. Make sure you get it for what you need AND what you anticipate. A lot of packs are very good at 3000 cu in range, but at around 4000 or so, seems to go downhill (I'm picky). But if the only thing you do requires 3000 cubes, do it. BTW, there seemed to be a LOT of sarcs on the website, with different volumes and weights. Let us know what you decide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielP Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 I'm also in the process of ordering a Zero Sarc, and just in case this thread is not quite dead, Dan has a number of options for lenomesh pads - one layer lenomesh sewn, Velcro off single layer lenomesh, Sewn 2 layer lenomesh or velcro off lenomesh pad. Any comments as to preferences? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearup5000 Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 the pad makes a nice sit pad - but mine is pretty beefy since it's off an inex. Just think of your applications and what you'll be doing. In summer the pad is great, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 I ended up ordering a Super SARC, with the 500 with spectra grid, and spectra bottom and kangaroo pouch. I used demo model, and found this size is the most adaptable. Can't wait to get it and put it to use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhair19 Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Olyclimber, That's my Fav' Pack by far period! I ordered mine from Dan about three years ago after talking with him in person twice at his two stores. I demoed a larger Sarc on a forced overnighter Bivoac Seminar up Granite Mnt. and was impressed to say the least. Anyway, I gave Dan my laundry list of do's and don'ts. I like the KISS rule when it comes to Packs so I opted for a lot of No's on mine to cut down the weight and clutter on the front. I'm a tall guy so I figure the bag itself is about 3,100" and what I was looking for was a Blast Pack, ie., a big Daypack suitable for overnight. My term for pack it up and GO! No bottom zipper No daisy chains No convertible top pocket/fanny pack Dan informed me that 420D packcloth has the lowest water absorbtion rate of all the fabrics that he had (at that time) something to consider for here in PNW. Mine is sewn in this throughout. With it's two detachable side/bottle pockets, two 3/4" wide stays, removeable Evazote backpad, total weight on a postal digital scale is 2Lbs, 15.4-ounces. Good enough for me. To save even more weight you could order yours with a double layer Full Spectra (dyed gray) bottom for thee ultimate expression of bombproof durability. This 'option' costs $25.00 extra but you being a Climber might be worth it. Dan's Packs are all the best anyway and every, single sewing point no matter what or where it is located is backed up in triplicate. Absolutely incredible the level of detail, time and superior sewing. Packcloth I later learned from Dan is actually slightly heavier per square yard than 500D Cordura 7.4-ounces -verses- 6.8-ozs respectively. Full Spectra is a mere 3.8 ozs and Dynemma Grid also called Spectra Grid is way light at 4.0-ounces per sq. yrd. Last month, I bought a navy blue Shovel Pocket with drawcord that is really nice. In hindsight I kinda' wish I'd got it sewn in FS. I also got a cool gray Silcoat Rain Cover that features two drawcords/locks one top/bottom and it probably weighs maybe 3-ounces if that! It'll easily cover all my gear including a 20" x 60" x 3/8" rolled Evazote pad strapped on the front with more room to spare. Last Oct, I did a three day trip in the Alpine Lakes W' going in with 42.5Lbs and coming out carrying a sodden Marmot down bag and Tent I figure my Zero Sarc Pack weighed 50Lbs easy. It was borderline comfortable as I believe that's the maximum the three peice belt can comfortably carry. Any other brand of Pack in that size range, and I'd have been a hurtin' unit. Oh, if you are really anal about saving weight then make sure you specify the 5/8" wide webbing for all the compression straps, mine are 3/4" which was the lightest Dan carried three years ago. Mine has 6-compresstion straps which really get this baby in tight, as little as an inch wide when partially loaded. I also have a 'stretch cord' on the front which is very usefull for securing rain clothing, wet tarp, etc. Dan also made a custom mod' to mine recently making the top pocket detachable to where even the haul loop has this tinny velcro strip to secure it outa' the way of my head, Dan thinks of EVERYTHING on these fine Packs. Incrediable, the man is a brilliant Pack designer. I'm also getting a Summit Flap for those times when I want to strip mine down to just stays sans pockets on smaller/shorter trips. Simplicity to the core. Ask for a double layer, Full Spectra, 300 cu.ins. Summit Flap/Pocket. I've seen 'em and are sweet. Mchale Packs Rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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