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Dr_Crash

First rock shoes

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I've never worn velcros so I can't say for sure.

 

What I like about lace-ups (for alpine), is that you can cinch them down tight, for a tougher pitch, and you can loosen them a bit if you're doing a bunch of easier pitches. Velcros might do the same thing.

 

 

 

 

Thanks gripped. Are velcros about the same as lace up re: all day wear?

 

drC

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velcros sometimes undo themselves in wide cracks. never hads that problem with lace ups.

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If you have foot problems or wear orthothics, you might want to avoid super flexible shoes initially. My first pair of rock shoes was a cheap pair of flexible Acopas. I took them out to Marymoor and bouldered around for an hour. I could barely walk for the next week as my feet hurt. Your feet are full of muscles. Wearing rigid orthotics, these muscles atrophy. It takes time to build these muscles back.

 

That was my experience, anyway.

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Hmm. I tore my arch on my right foot a few years ago and it still gives me burning sensations on some days. I may need some support. I am also hoping that actually climbing will strengthen that arch and make it stop hurting but have no idea, really. (Just like I hope that continuing to ski like a maniac will help my knees stop hurting rolleyes.gif.)

 

drC

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DUDE!

 

I think you have the scoop on shoes, now go buy a pair and post a trip report!

 

CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB!!!

 

fruit.gif

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....who prefer the ghastly fit of 5.10s or Tenayas. (A little joke. Ha...)

 

Shut up you sportivamonkeyspankin'foolclimberpansynancyeuroshapedclovenhoofed beast...

 

GO WITH FIVE TEN MOCC'S! you can readily resole these, they mold to your foot and any routes that you will be climbing will not require high performance edging platforms...you will learn much faster in slippers as you can feel what's going on...if you climb in a beginner piece of shit ski boot of a shoe, you will only be held back...the mocc's should be sized tightly and they will stretch to your foot in a matter of about 2 pitches...and they will be comfortable despite what everyone above (DFA excepted...he's spot on, even with his whack-fairy princess feet syndrome)....

 

Tenaya's are dirt cheap and good performance...especially the models that are knockoffs of the five tens...

 

YOU WILL BE HELD BACK IF YOU CLIMB IN SHITTY (READ GENERAL ALL AROUND BEGINNER SHOES) SHOES...

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RuMR

I never considered that the type of shoe you learned on was important as that. However, my first pair of shoes were Anasazi lace ups. I have always had confidence in my foot placements from the very beginning. Maybe part of it was the shoe?...

I'd personally rather not exact any influence on a particular shoe to purchase. When asked about buying climbing shoes by beginners I normally tell 'em whatever shoe feels comfortable. Within reason of course keeping in mind they should be snug and likely will stretch upon use.

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I went to second ascent to buy my first pair of rock shoes and the i got the same advice as AF gave you. I was looking at some used performance shoes and the sales guy said "See all those used rock shoes on the shelf there? Those were all bought by beginners who got sick of climbing because their feet hurt." and he recommended the Mad Rock Phoenx shoes which i believe cast me around $60 new. I've used them for awhile now and i still like them. they are comfy and snug and i'm sure the only thing that limits my climbing right now is me. Not the shoes.

 

Cheers

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thumbs_up.gif

 

I'll tell you one thing, I'd rather go climbing with someone who's not climbing so well, than someone who's constantly crying about his feet hurting AND not climbing well.

 

If your feet hurt bad, you'll be avoiding foot placements that make them hurt. You will reduce your choices of holds and thus climb more poorly.

 

It's important to have your toes touching the front of the boot. They are not going to stretch lengthwise. If they stretch widthwise, just tighten the laces up more. Duh. Don't worry about the shoe stretching. Just make sure that you have more room to crank down the laces.

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if you have ever done any rock climbing in a pair of hiking boots then even a stiff shoe like the ace will offer radically greater sensitivity. eternalX's advice is pretty good. that said even a "good" climber like Cairns is seen wandering up 5.11s and 5.12s in a pair of super thick soled 5.10 Newtons worn over thick wool socks so the theory that you will be unable to climb delicate routes in a stiff supportive ock shoe has a few holes yellaf.gif

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if you have ever done any rock climbing in a pair of hiking boots then even a stiff shoe like the ace will offer radically greater sensitivity. eternalX's advice is pretty good. that said even a "good" climber like Cairns is seen wandering up 5.11s and 5.12s in a pair of super thick soled 5.10 Newtons worn over thick wool socks so the theory that you will be unable to climb delicate routes in a stiff supportive ock shoe has a few holes yellaf.gif

 

Or maybe this "Cairns" would be wandering up 5.13s in some shoes that actually allowed him to feel the rock?

 

KA-BOING! shocked.gif

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You're straying from the point Dr. Flash, Dr. Crash is not Cairns. The difference in performance Dr. Crash is gonna get between any pair of (comfy yet snug) shoes is going to be quite minimal.

 

But I agree, getting a supportive (klunky) shoe is not a necessity. A newbie's arms are gonna flame out long before his/her feet, so I don't think support is required.

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thumbs_up.gif

 

I'll tell you one thing, I'd rather go climbing with someone who's not climbing so well, than someone who's constantly crying about his feet hurting AND not climbing well.

 

If your feet hurt bad, you'll be avoiding foot placements that make them hurt. You will reduce your choices of holds and thus climb more poorly.

 

It's important to have your toes touching the front of the boot. They are not going to stretch lengthwise. If they stretch widthwise, just tighten the laces up more. Duh. Don't worry about the shoe stretching. Just make sure that you have more room to crank down the laces.

 

why does every one think that performance shoes are uncomfortable?????? Mine are quite confortable...

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if you have ever done any rock climbing in a pair of hiking boots then even a stiff shoe like the ace will offer radically greater sensitivity. eternalX's advice is pretty good. that said even a "good" climber like Cairns is seen wandering up 5.11s and 5.12s in a pair of super thick soled 5.10 Newtons worn over thick wool socks so the theory that you will be unable to climb delicate routes in a stiff supportive ock shoe has a few holes yellaf.gif

 

Or maybe this "Cairns" would be wandering up 5.13s in some shoes that actually allowed him to feel the rock?

 

KA-BOING! shocked.gif

 

I believe his most recent description of the process was that he was "breaking into leading 5.11 from above" yellaf.gif

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Another point, re: stretch of shoes...

 

THey will stretch plenty around the foot (as long as they ae not synthetic) but will not stretch much in length.

 

If you are shopping at a shop with plenty of stock, ask to try on all the pairs of a particular size once you decide on the right one. You may be suprised at the variation in size, and will probably be able to even out the differential of fit between your differently sized feet.

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They are not going to stretch lengthwise.
I dunno what kinda shoes you're wearing, but the unlined shoes I've worn all stretched considerably lengthwise.

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DUDE!

 

I think you have the scoop on shoes, now go buy a pair and post a trip report!

 

CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB!!!

 

fruit.gif

 

I did climb climb climb!!! Not for too long because you wouldn't think I'm efficient right off the bat, would you? But I spent a couple of hours at Vertical World with a friend after fleeing Marymoor which we reached just when the downpour started today...

 

I tried plenty of shoes, and the findingsd are: I need a 1/2 bigger size with Mad Rock and then they're okay; 5.10 fit me likely the best at my street size or 1/2 size less (large toebox, narrow heel, and sturdy arch support) but the model I tried (Spire) felt a bit weird somehow: too boxy maybe; and I am okay in a pair of Mythos one full size down my street size instead of the 1 1/2 I tried initially. That's what I got (size 40), and they better not stretch too much on my right foot, okay, or that guy will not be snug enough. I think after stretching them a bit I'll be fine with them for long periods of time. For now I have to remove them after a while.

 

Back to the TR. I loved it! Really nice, and I'll try to climb once a week or more from now on with my friend, outdoors whenever possible, and soon on real rock rather than a wall. Tried stuff ranging from 5.6 to 5.8, had a lot of stuff, and finally gave up when my arms got too tired (that lack of efficiency again) to get my fat butt closer to the wall on that slightly overhanging route.

 

Thanks guys for your patience with me. You rockband.gif!

 

drC

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One last thing D.C. :

 

Right now, is the best time to climb with someone who knows what they're doing. If you learn bad technique from the start, that bad form can be ingrained in your style for a long time.

 

 

Cheers! bigdrink.gif

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I did climb climb climb!!! Not for too long because you wouldn't think I'm efficient right off the bat, would you? But I spent a couple of hours at Vertical World with a friend after fleeing Marymoor which we reached just when the downpour started today...

 

I tried plenty of shoes, and the findingsd are: I need a 1/2 bigger size with Mad Rock and then they're okay; 5.10 fit me likely the best at my street size or 1/2 size less (large toebox, narrow heel, and sturdy arch support) but the model I tried (Spire) felt a bit weird somehow: too boxy maybe; and I am okay in a pair of Mythos one full size down my street size instead of the 1 1/2 I tried initially. That's what I got (size 40), and they better not stretch too much on my right foot, okay, or that guy will not be snug enough. I think after stretching them a bit I'll be fine with them for long periods of time. For now I have to remove them after a while.

 

Back to the TR. I loved it! Really nice, and I'll try to climb once a week or more from now on with my friend, outdoors whenever possible, and soon on real rock rather than a wall. Tried stuff ranging from 5.6 to 5.8, had a lot of stuff, and finally gave up when my arms got too tired (that lack of efficiency again) to get my fat butt closer to the wall on that slightly overhanging route.

 

Thanks guys for your patience with me. You rockband.gif!

 

drC

 

thumbs_up.gif

 

Nice!

 

wave.gif

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Right now, is the best time to climb with someone who knows what they're doing. If you learn bad technique from the start, that bad form can be ingrained in your style for a long time.

 

Is that an invitation to go climbing with you? wink.gif

 

drC

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Hey folks, sorry to resuscitate a recently deceased thread, but I just got back to the USA and cc.com after a long absence. Here are my $0.02.

 

For the person going to France: The Cobras I got in France I got at a Decathlon sporting goods store out in the burbs outside Brive. I was visiting a guy I had met in Nepal who lives in the boonies in the Dordogne region, and he took me there on the way to the train station. They were on sale with only a couple pairs left and the original price was something like 65 euros (still cheaper than in USA but not by half). Decathlon stores are all over France. Their outdoor gear house brand is "Quechua". Also there are little outdoor shops in a lot of towns. One was having a half-off sale and I could have scored some nice shoes for 35 euros, but they fit funny.

 

Elsewhere in Europe: If you find yourself in the Czech republic, Slovakia, or thereabouts, you will have a wide variety of Czech-made shoes to choose from with prices starting around $40 US. The most familiar brand is Rock Empire, but there are others too. All looked like good stuff, but sizes ran large, selection was limited, and I could not find any that fit my puny feet. Plus I wanted to actually see some of Bratislava and Prague and not spend all my time in climbing shops on an extended shoe quest.

 

For all the Mythos fans: I'm one too. They were my first shoes (and until just now, my only shoes) and I love them dearly, but you must know that they stretch A LOT! I bought them 2.5 sizes below my hiking boot size, which was just short of excruciatingly painful. AFter 2 times out, they were snug but comfortable. After 1 full season, they were bunny-slipper soft for all day trad comfort. I am now tempted to blame my suckiness on harder routes on shoe sloppiness, but honestly, it's just that I suck. tongue.gif

 

Once in a while one of the local rock gyms would have a big shoe expo where you can try on lots and lots and lots of shoes and actually test them out on the wall. That is a great opportunity to pick out the ones you like best and that fit the best, then look for them on sale elsewhere.

 

Happy shopping! smile.gif

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I can confirm that the Mythos stretch. I went only one size down and they're already nice and comfy. I kind of wish I had the strength to endure the first few times in a 1 1/2 sizes down (no way for 2 1/2 like you Dryad, too scary wink.gif). I'll lace them up tight smile.gif

 

drC

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