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Szyjakowski

attn: Lworth bouldering tribe

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I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.

 

If that is the case then you need to pull down and not out. Any seasoned climber could figure that out, pulling out creates leverage against the flake and thus altering the route.

 

I seriously don't think it is only because of not pulling straight down.

 

bonecrushingauthority4lyfe

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One of the Lowe brothers was infamous for ripping holds off of long established problems. Alex, I think. Geek_em8.gif

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kill the hold! kill the hold! madgo_ron.gif

 

nothing teaches hold preservation like free soloing

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I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.
Just another reason for me to stay away from the boulders.... cry.gifcry.gif But honestly folks, they're pebbles in a forest. When a little boy pulls off a little flake, does it really alter your life so much? You don't even know if someone took a crowbar to it, most likely some fat guy was pulling a bit too hard. Think of it as enhanced erosion. Trash is another story. thumbs_down.gif

 

Though I have noticed that an additional 50 lbs will make a slope sluff on me where my partners were fine. hellno3d.gif Guess I need fatter skis. evils3d.gif

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blah, blah...if the holds are too loose for you to evenly distribute your weight without pulling the flake off your definitely climbing in poor style pitty.gif...get a grip...

the real bullshit is the trash...old, young sporto, trado, tribeo.... whoever....give a hoot don't pollute!

it sucks the boulders broke..didn't change that much but it still sucks...

Actually, the one that pisses me most off is the cave rock at Barneys..

thanks to misdirection by the forest circus the best problem in leavenworth is so fricken fuked its pathetic.

nice trail they built from the b.e.a.utiful parking lot. (oh yeah the helipad...) rolleyes.gif

bigdrink.gif

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I really don't think kids are born trashers. We're not talking about 3 year olds here. And most boulderers aren't kids!

 

two weeks ago in 11worth, everybody I was climbing with was 25-43 years old.

 

I douby anybody pried the flake off because they couldn't climb it. That problem is soft v4. Probably broke off. I was there two weeks ago and the holds hadn't changed since I did the problem a year ago.

you know what really sucks? not a broken hold. or hangingout with people who can legally buy smokes and beer. it is that you think that bouldering crap is 'climbing'.

the_finger.giffruit.gifmoon.gifpitty.gifwazzup.gif

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I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.

 

If that is the case then you need to pull down and not out. Any seasoned climber could figure that out, pulling out creates leverage against the flake and thus altering the route.

 

Tintin.JPG

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I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.

 

If that is the case then you need to pull down and not out. Any seasoned climber could figure that out, pulling out creates leverage against the flake and thus altering the route.

 

 

Thrutchs quote is one of the funniest ever, exactly how do you pull down and not out on a steep problem....? rolleyes.gif

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Distel,

 

You are incorrect for several reasons, one is that both problems Szyjakowski listed as having flakes borken are not overhanging only slightly more or less then vertical so you can still pull down and not out. Secondly if you read Sherman's book only bouldering you will see at one point on overhanging rouyes you will need to transfer your power from pulling to pushing and thus applying downward force on the flake. The people who state that rocks fall aprat are true, but it tends to be climbers with poor technique whom acclerate the process.

 

Try being less offended and take the advice as a possible way to improve the situation for all.

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Try being less offended and take the advice as a possible way to improve the situation for all.

try it yurself.

 

thrutch this moon.gif

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I'm not offended. I've done the fridge problem and I know that the start isn't even vertical, its slabby.

 

I'm not offended, but you simly can't pull down and not out on a 60degree overhanging wall.

 

The other flake that I was referring to that broke off "Aggresive Rejection" was because it was weak. Not because of pulling out.

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As an aside, I really hope TinTin escapes the comics-into-movies trend, I just know it would wind up ghastly.

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As an aside, I really hope TinTin escapes the comics-into-movies trend, I just know it would wind up ghastly.

 

Ya, that one and The Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers. hahaha.gif

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thrutch wrote

Secondly if you read Sherman's book only bouldering you will see at one point on overhanging rouyes you will need to transfer your power from pulling to pushing and thus applying downward force on the flake.

 

hey distel, you better watch out or thrutch will open the ultimate can of rockclimbing.com whoop-ass on you by quoting from john long's "how to rock climb." and then you'll know that you've been put in your place by an expert. rolleyes.gif

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Prying off holds hahaha.gif

Maybe Retrosoreass is loose with his Gorilla crow bar again.

We know he dosn't like sportos, could it be he doen't like mat fags either yelrotflmao.gif

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It seems like the bouldering ethics should be simple. Never clean a hold after the first ascent. Holds break off well established problems all the time, though. Especially flakes. Maybe some fatty did a bouldering circuit in Leavy last weekend.

 

One thing that kills me is when I see a climber using a wire brush on a problem that has already been established. Yes it is easier to climb it after you use the wire brush... but only because you made the hold bigger. madgo_ron.gif

 

Who you calling a fatty?

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you can't get PBR in New Zealand Peter, but you can get Lion Red which is also swill.... the good stuff is Monteiths, if you go on the brewery tour you get a free pint bigdrink.gif

That's the Yuppie Stuff. A Southern Man drinks Speight's!

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BOULDERING

Ethics/style...pull down not out ...give me a break...it's a freak'n rock...there inherently dirty,loose.

Kinder gentler bouldering, no crank'n on boulder problems

rolleyes.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

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Went on a bouldering tour of the Mad Meadows and Forest land boulders, i did not see any trash or other vandalism of the areas, Mad Meadows was even less traveled than I expected (I had a hard time finding it ).

I like the Forest land / Barney's rubble area the most of all the bouldering in Leavenworth, good landings easy access no road noise like Swift.

I cleaned ( I hope pulling off loose flakes with your hands is acceptable ) and sent a new problem on the boulder just before the slab with the dead burnt tree at the end of the circuit.

Start on the left with hands on top of boulder, heel hook left foot , traverse right for 14 feet exit

Called , (Dude Hook me up) V1 possibly V2

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Distel,

 

You are incorrect for several reasons, one is that both problems Szyjakowski listed as having flakes borken are not overhanging only slightly more or less then vertical so you can still pull down and not out. Secondly if you read Sherman's book only bouldering you will see at one point on overhanging rouyes you will need to transfer your power from pulling to pushing and thus applying downward force on the flake. The people who state that rocks fall aprat are true, but it tends to be climbers with poor technique whom acclerate the process.

 

Try being less offended and take the advice as a possible way to improve the situation for all.

 

ummm...i'd like to see you climb even a vertical wall w/ an undercling sequence and not pull out...

 

you are an idiot or trolling....

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Distel,

 

You are incorrect for several reasons, one is that both problems Szyjakowski listed as having flakes borken are not overhanging only slightly more or less then vertical so you can still pull down and not out. Secondly if you read Sherman's book only bouldering you will see at one point on overhanging rouyes you will need to transfer your power from pulling to pushing and thus applying downward force on the flake. The people who state that rocks fall aprat are true, but it tends to be climbers with poor technique whom acclerate the process.

 

Try being less offended and take the advice as a possible way to improve the situation for all.

 

ummm...i'd like to see you climb even a vertical wall w/ an undercling sequence and not pull out...

 

you are an idiot or trolling....

 

thumbs_up.gif

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