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Szyjakowski

attn: Lworth bouldering tribe

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why is it that you people must pull flakes off established problems...and leave your trash in the woods????

examples:

the fridge boulder, standard overhang...used to have a killer crimpy flake as the start...now a flat 1" edge...this particular problem was sent in the 80's, maybe even the late 70's...yet just last season the starting hold is suddenly bigger, a solid hold that definitely didn't warrant prying off.

boulder near Carnival Crack (the ow near 8mile TR rock that requires a rope)...second foot hold is now a large 2" edge, used to be a balancy foot sequence on a flake...this was very fresh as I brushed the dirt off from the flake scar and also found four schmidt cans and a roll of almost used up tape at the base...

pipsqueak basecamp built last year...thankfully promptly removed by rat.

WTF morons the_finger.gifthe_finger.gif...please refrain from trashing the woods more than you already do with your pad crushing bullsheit thumbs_down.gif

we don't need the problems and attention that other threatened areas deal with because of unconscious behavior.

please pass the word to your comrades.

bigdrink.gif thanks.

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It seems like the bouldering ethics should be simple. Never clean a hold after the first ascent. Holds break off well established problems all the time, though. Especially flakes. Maybe some fatty did a bouldering circuit in Leavy last weekend.

 

One thing that kills me is when I see a climber using a wire brush on a problem that has already been established. Yes it is easier to climb it after you use the wire brush... but only because you made the hold bigger. madgo_ron.gif

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don't know about that shit Ben.

 

Your statement is saying it is everybody, but how do you know some 5.9 trad gumby didn't pry the flake off????

 

Everybody I climb with practices good ethics.

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Bouldering is a phenominal aspect of climbing, unfortunately its accessibility to the masses and its SK8 style marketing opens it up to alot of folks who wouldnt know or appreciate the atmospheric aspects of the natural realm. They dont give a shit about nature or solitude.

I guess thats where WE come in and Distel as the bouldering ambassador to the masses, the conduit of proper conduct to the "new" generation will help to connect the two diverging views.

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All you can do is spread the word about ethics to the new people when you see them and hope they get the message. Kids are born trashers until they learn otherwise.

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All you can do is spread the word about ethics to the new people when you see them and hope they get the message. Kids are born trashers until they learn otherwise.

 

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

And be kind about it. It is the only way they will really listen, and it reminds you that we were all there at one time.

 

bigdrink.gifE

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iam not saying it was you or your buddies luke, nor do i really think some trad gumby would pry a solid flake off the fridge...i was just pissed and hate to see beer cans in the woods.

like i said spread the word. bigdrink.gif

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i didn't find any full beers but i did find a couple of PBR empties this w/e hellno3d.gif

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I really don't think kids are born trashers. We're not talking about 3 year olds here. And most boulderers aren't kids!

 

two weeks ago in 11worth, everybody I was climbing with was 25-43 years old.

 

I douby anybody pried the flake off because they couldn't climb it. That problem is soft v4. Probably broke off. I was there two weeks ago and the holds hadn't changed since I did the problem a year ago.

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i didn't find any full beers but i did find a couple of PBR empties this w/e hellno3d.gif

 

Hmmm, I was enjoyin a breakfast PBR when you and company pulled into the "climber's lot" sunday AM... but I didn't leave any empties layin about. cantfocus.gifbigdrink.gif

 

-Sure did notice A LOT of new* missing flakes on the Forest Land Boulders and one mutilated rattler boxing_smiley.gif (no need to kill the snakes!boxing_smiley.gif)

 

* I say new but I don't boulder much and my last visit was 4-5 years ago. As Ben stated, many of these problems have history, don't pry off good shiite on established routes to make your own silly new variation, now if it pops off while climbing that's a different story... bigdrink.gif

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i didn't find any full beers but i did find a couple of PBR empties this w/e hellno3d.gif

 

Hmmm, I was enjoyin a breakfast PBR when you and company pulled into the "climber's lot" sunday AM... but I didn't leave any empties layin about. cantfocus.gifbigdrink.gif

 

-Sure did notice A LOT of new* missing flakes on the Forest Land Boulders and one mutilated rattler boxing_smiley.gif (no need to kill the snakes!boxing_smiley.gif)

 

* I say new but I don't boulder much and my last visit was 4-5 years ago. As Ben stated, many of these problems have history, don't pry off good shiite on established routes to make your own silly new variation, now if it pops off while climbing that's a different story... bigdrink.gif

 

well crap, why didn't you remind me not to lock my keys in the car?

 

no need to kill the snakes and no need to steal the trees! hellno3d.gif

 

nothing like carbo loading to start the day off right grin.gif

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well crap, why didn't you remind me not to lock my keys in the car?

 

no need to kill the snakes and no need to steal the trees! hellno3d.gif

 

nothing like carbo loading to start the day off right grin.gif

 

In that sea of mounties? I just assumed you were one of those clowns. Guess I shoulda known since you were'nt wearin a helmet while walkin thru the parking lot. cantfocus.gif

 

...and let's not kid anyone, I wasn't carbo loading, I was lookin to tie-one-on for the schwack up to Tumwater Tower. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

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well crap, why didn't you remind me not to lock my keys in the car?

 

no need to kill the snakes and no need to steal the trees! hellno3d.gif

 

nothing like carbo loading to start the day off right grin.gif

 

In that sea of mounties? I just assumed you were one of those clowns. Guess I shoulda known since you were'nt wearin a helmet while walkin thru the parking lot. cantfocus.gif

 

...and let's not kid anyone, I wasn't carbo loading, I was lookin to tie-one-on for the schwack up to Tumwater Tower. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

 

oh fuck that was a sea of them wasn't it??. hellno3d.gifhellno3d.gif i should be offended. honestly we forgot to even bring helmets and given how dirty those routes were i definitely should've. took a few blows to the head.

 

hope you had a tolerable thwack. i think that PBR belonged to some self loathing mountie fuck trying to gain the courage to learn how to rap.

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30791.jpg

 

1. No PRB here.

 

2. I think wire brushing most often makes holds smaller over the long term.

 

3. Minx/Slappy - That bad eastside karnma will get you everytime.

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Besides it's downright unpatriotic driving all those excess miles! Heck you can't live more than 5 miles from Stone Gardens.

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you can't get PBR in New Zealand Peter, but you can get Lion Red which is also swill.... the good stuff is Monteiths, if you go on the brewery tour you get a free pint bigdrink.gif

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Besides it's downright unpatriotic driving all those excess miles! Heck you can't live more than 5 miles from Stone Gardens.

 

 

hahaha! so untrue. i think mileage wise i'm closer to l'worth the sg grin.gif

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Minx that comment was directed at Slappy, you should have been at 38 - Sunday morning was fine after a bit of mist.

 

spent a surprisingly satisfying day at e38 on saturday. where'd you climb on sunday?

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In regards to everybody who is saying people are prying off flakes on already established problems, you are grossly mistaken.

 

I don't know anybody who uses wires on already established problems. FLAKES RIP OFF!!!!! just yesterday what we thought was a bomber crimp ripped right off. Leavenworth rock is like that, just gotta accept it. I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.

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I'm only 150lbs and I've taken quite a few holds off on already established problems.

 

If that is the case then you need to pull down and not out. Any seasoned climber could figure that out, pulling out creates leverage against the flake and thus altering the route.

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