deskjockie Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Newbie heading up hogsback route early Sat with my 12 year old son. Planning no rope up around above hogsback. Anyone have any very recent info on condition of route and bergschrund? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 I don’t know how much the conditions have changed since this past Sunday, but we found a thin breakable crust from the top of Palmer all the way up. This crust varied in depth from ankle to knee deep and just got worse as the day wore on. The cattle trail from the hogsback to the summit was well worn in and the schrund is starting to open up nicely, although the climbers path was still leading directly through the middle of it.  I’m sure that your plan is to leave early, but since it’s been so warm, I would leave even earlier in the hopes of find at least a little firm snow before the sun comes up. Good luck and hope you and your son have a great trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deskjockie Posted April 30, 2004 Author Share Posted April 30, 2004 Thanks for the info - we'll try to leave Timberline by 2am or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 desk, that's when we left, I would shoot for midnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffh Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Climbed route today. Left parking lot at 1am and had a firm crust up to the hogsback. Worst part is that they have driven the snow cats the entire width of the Palmer and when it freezes at night, makes for a not so fun walk. Look for areas they haven't plowed. Climbers path still goes directly over the schrund. Enjoyed an hour alone on the summit waiting for the sunrise. Crust still solid but softening quickly as I descended. Back at car by 7am. Great time to be up on the mountain. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormfighter6 Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 I am taking a Boy Scout group up Hood in late May. I wanted to spend some time w/ them on the mountain teaching them self arrest, rescue etc. Going to take the hogsback route. How much time does it shave off if you stay just above the ski area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 With a group of boy scouts, it might save several hours if camping above the top of the Palmer or even just below the outcrop to the SE of Crater Rock. Plus, it would probably feel more like an expedition if they are camped up on the mountain rather than near a parking lot. Have any of them camped over 9,000'? For those who may struggle, it will make summit day easier for those not in the best of shape. Â However, I know that Timberline tries to discourage those camping on the S. Side as it is definately considered a day trip. Make it fun for them, and they are more likely to delve into mountaineering a little deeper. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Good luck B and Desk Jockie! Wish I was going with ya! Mike and I will be cheering you on from Coeur d'alene! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gslater Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Newbie heading up hogsback route early Sat with my 12 year old son. Planning no rope up around above hogsback. Anyone have any very recent info on condition of route and bergschrund? Thanks. Â Link to MHNF climbing conditions page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormfighter6 Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 Thats the goal I'm trying to make this an "expedition" for the kids. This winter the group spent a weekend at Paradise snow caving. I talked w/ the rangers and they have no prob w/ having a group up there. I've got extra 4 season tents Im lending the kids and Dad's. I hoping I can give some of the kids ( and Dads) an experience they will never forget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpinerock Posted May 1, 2004 Share Posted May 1, 2004 That does sound like a good trip. Camping up high is a lot of fun with the views to the South and of Portland. I don't know if it will be a problem for you but just a reminder, I think group size is limited to 12 but still worth checking into. Have a good trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 Illumination Saddle is not far out of the way at all (20 min), and one of the best places to camp on the mountain. Works well for groups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormfighter6 Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 Could I get some Beta for Illum saddle. Â Thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 (edited) take a left at the top of the lift towards the prominent saddle formed by illumination rock (that big bumb of the right skyline of hood from portland); fully laden, a big group would probably take more like 45 minutes or so to get there. Â the camp site is incredible, excellent views down on the reid and its headwall. tempting scrambles on illum rock and castle crags (uphill). also some steep sections (relatively flat traverse though fromt he palmer lift) which could be used for self-arrest practice. the saddle can hold 12 people at least. Â Edited May 2, 2004 by ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdog Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 Anyone see a problem with someone "guiding" a group on Mt. Hood who has no experience with the mountain? Aside from the impact of a large group, I think it is quite unwise to "lead" a climb on a route or peak one has not climbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 Anyone see a problem with someone "guiding" a group on Mt. Hood who has no experience with the mountain? Aside from the impact of a large group, I think it is quite unwise to "lead" a climb on a route or peak one has not climbed. Â Ya, I see a problem with it. Â I guided for 6 years, helped teach the Mazama "Advanced" climbing program for 2 years, and ran the PSU Outdoor program for 2 years as well, including going on and leading many trips. I am very familiar with it. Â It could be a real clusterfu*k, and a potentially dangerous one, if you don't have some training and organizing sessions beforehand. Make sure everybody there can not only self-arrest, but stop a rope team pulling them down as well, decide in advance how you will handle folks stringing out all over the countryside, who will group with whom, who knows which end of a compass points north or can work a GPS and plan on havng them stick to the person/people who can't even spell GPS, who has wands and how to use them or not use them and go with good weather only etc etc etc etc etc etc. Â Planning and training is critical unless you want to just roll the dice. Many do and it works out ok for many of them. Â You asked for my opinion and thats it. Of course, being scouts, they most likely already have it handled. Â Good luck: Â Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 (edited) might be reason to camp at illum, taking a full day to practice safety skillz and foregoing a summit if necessary so that everyone has the techniques down. those who get killed on the s side route seem to always be newbies or the victims of newbies (the old flossing the mtn side trick). you might feel like an asshole if you contributed to that...i agree w/ the notion that not being familiar w/ the mtn/route seems very questionable when playing guide. Edited May 2, 2004 by ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormfighter6 Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 I appreciate all the Beta and the consern. This weekend My wife and I are climbing that route. So I will have climbed it before. Now granted it has been a few years since was payed to guide people up mountains. I was an associate AMGA guide in college but I still do several trips a year taking groups up MT Adams even Mt Rainier. I would have taken them up Adams South side but the road will be closed for the last several miles. Hence forth Hood I have already had several sessions at paradise with the kids and their parents they all know how to self arrest, self rescue, set up a Z pulley 3 and 5. This was done w/ a lot of forethought hence asking for Beta on the route. I can understand the concern trust me I have a lot of concern also. Thats is also why we are having 2 days up there to retrain and make sure EVERYONE knows what to do. I appreciate the concern. I have always said there are generally 2 classes of people who get killed on MT's the Neophytes and the VERY experienced. 1st type don't understand the risks they are taking. 2nd they are overconfident. Â PS If I already have said that several of the kids cant go because I didn't feel comfortable with their skills with an ice ax or rope. I'm taking this VERY seriously I have in my keep the most important thing a parent could ever have, their child. I appreciate all the Beta and the concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 Sounds like you have it handled, be sure and take a camera along with the important stuff, kids grow so fast. Â Have good time! Â Regards: Â Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 Good Luck, I might see you up there this weekend if the weather cooperates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 grooooooovy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricardo_Montalban Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 actually, the big bump on the right side of hood (from pdx) is the steel cliffs. IR is well below the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 don't make me have to go project genesis on your ass khan  to be precise, i live in the 'couve...i only wish i was in portland you can see illumination from here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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