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TrogdortheBurninator

beginner alpine suggestions for weekend

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I am trying to think of something fun to climb this weekend and am looking for suggestions. Looking for something to climb with a party of 3. Here are the catches/preferences:

 

I would prefer an alpine rock route

Climbing should be easy (~5.2 - ~5.6)

A few pitches of climbing (up to 5 or 6)

I cant leave seattle until 12:00 saturday. So either a one day climb that could be started early sunday, or a climb that could be approached in maybe 5-6 hours on saturday would be ideal.

Nothing too strenuous. It will be one of the partners first alpine climb.

 

Any gear suggestions are much appreciated.

 

I was thinking of South Arete SEWS or Ingall's south ridge. Any other ideas?

 

Thanks in advance.

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the road to ingalls is still a bit short of the trailhead if that makes a difference.

 

There always is the tooth

 

crack open the beckey guides man,

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Maybe the West Ridge of Lundin up next to Snoqualmie Mountain. Be prepared for some steep snow pitches (ice axe usage).

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the ranger says an extra 4 miles on ingalls as of the last update. I figure that would add some time, but do you think we could still make the lake by saturday evening at a moderate pace.

 

I climbed the tooth about a month ago, so that is lower on the prioity list. What do people think about the amount of snow on route for ingalls or SEWS? I would like to avoid/minimize the use of an axe/crampons because one of partners has a fair amount of rock (sport climbing) climbing experience, but very little experience on snow. Another plus for any route would be large belay ledges so the exposure while belaying isn't too sketchy.

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What do you mean by "evening"? With an extra four miles on the road, you're talking about 3-6 hours to the lake probably. But you're officially not supposed to camp at the lake anyway. With all the snow around you can probably camp just about anywhere along the way. Right at the pass would be pretty darn scenic. The drive is about 2.5 hours.

 

I think you're going to be hard-pressed to find anything "alpine" that does not require stomping through a lot of snow right now.

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I think your first assumption would be a good one. SA of SEWS with a short approach, in the sun, and easy climbing with beautiful views. Plus drier being further east. Could also do Beckey Route on LB as well.

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You could definitely do Ingalls. The belay stations are bolted for that alpine sport climbing feel and you can lead the whole route with a set of nuts. Dunno about the snow, since I've only been there in the fall. I second chuck's recommendation of camping near Ingalls Pass. Nice views all around from there.

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SEWS south arete is perfectly feasible. You may need mountain boots/axe to get from the arete to the summit but you could either climb in the boots or carry them. Maybe use rock shoes for the 1st pitch then switch to boots when it is convenient.

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Guye Peak S Rib is more of a scramble and is an awfully short trip. The rock is good enough, it's the trees that will leave you cursing. hahaha.gif

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Slothrop,

 

Does Ingalls protect well with just a set of nuts, or will I be running it out long. I was thinking of bringing a set of nuts, a few larger hexes, and maybe 3 cams (.75-2). What do you think.

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Ingalls is a good climb, but you could make the approach Saturday by driving to the Ski-In party in Mazama, and go for S. Early Winter Spire. It is less than half the snow hiking that you'll encounter on the way to Ingalls, and there is less steep snowy terrain inbetween car and summit. The "mixed" pitch to the summit will be very easy to set up with a fixed rope of you want to, but my guess is even your sporto buddy will do just fine without that precaution.

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I don't remember it being run out with just a set of nuts, but you might bring smaller cams. If I remember correctly, there's nothing larger than small-hand-size.

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Dont know if this is a little basic but as a beginner on alpine pinnicle and castle seem a comfortable and enjoyable climb that are rewarding and give a taste for the alpine without providing too much potential for defeat. Not multi pitch though.

 

Just a bigginer putting in his cents.

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Thanks for asking what I've been thinking lately - It's been a long time since I've had a chance to get out and a few of these options should shake the moths out a bit...

 

BTW, if anyone would like to tackle the Tooth or something similar in the next week or so, let me know...

 

Trogdor, make sure you share a TR when you get back, yeah?

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