Best @ Frenchman's

[J_Fisher]

... Jihad, Lingerie . . . and Stems and Seeds.

Your favorite?

 

I would second this, and add Sinsemilla, Red M&Ms and a mid .10 thin crack over toward the Far Side that I think is Burning Spears. Though in full disclosure, I've only TR'd Red M&Ms and and Lingerie, so I don't know if that counts.

 

Another data point for the grade debate: I've only lead mid-10s on gear other places, but have lead Jihad, Mr. Clean and S&S (well, I fell on a 5.10 move at the top of S&S so maybe that doesn't count either). Evidence of soft grading? It may just be that I've got more time logged at Vantage since I seem to mostly crag early spring and late fall? Bob's Yer Uncle seems to deviate from the soft grades theory though. The crux tips move is stinkin' hard.

[Dane]

Doing Lingerie the old fashioned way...straight on, trad gear, no slippers or chalk to follow and on the sharp end of the rope.

 

 

 

[catbirdseat]

I just led Steel Grille, 5.9 at King Pins. I had top roped it a couple months before and knew I'd have a hard time with it, and I did. I had to aid a move I had had no trouble with on top rope. Conversely, I had no trouble with the move that had been toughest previously. Oh well, no redpoint this time, but it was a worthwhile experience anyway.

 

I'd say this is a quality route because it feels like it has 8 cruxes on it. There isn't just one hard spot. It's very sustained. It's a climb that is hard to forget.

 

If you go, take along some medium to large hexes in addition to a bunch of 2-4" cams. Placed endwise, the hexes work great where the crack flares inward and cams wouldn't do as well.

Edited May 10, 2004 by catbirdseat