MrDoolittle Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 When it comes to bolting hard trad routes, should you place the bolts near obvious rests, or next to hard-to-get placements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 This is almost word for word the same exact troll you have used in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Is somebody bored? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Yeah well I usually like to put them in as close to the crack as possible, to give the climber that "trad climb" feeling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 This is a Troll. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Or you could put them IN the crack like Toes of the Fisherman at Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 I personally prefer the bolts placed near the cruxes, just outside of the crack. They make really good footholds, and sometimes even add to the asthetic value of the crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 (edited) Some of my best wired stopper placements on trad were on hangerless bolts that I drilled in next to the crack. Â Edited April 21, 2004 by ashw_justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Duct tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratboy Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 I personally prefer the bolts placed near the cruxes, just outside of the crack. They make really good footholds, and sometimes even add to the asthetic value of the crack  You're talking about climbing, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Doolittle, why even waste your time, just bring a ladder and climb right past the hard shit. Â Â Then bolt the ladder to the wall if you think you might come back for a 2nd try should the first one fail cause the ladder was too steep. You could bash the aluminum directly into the crack it's leaning on. Â Yup. Â The you could claim "first ladder ascents" of lots of new stuff. It would open up all kinds of possibilities. You could even do a guide book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gripped Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Doolittle, why even waste your time, just bring a ladder and climb right past the hard shit. Â Â Then bolt the ladder to the wall if you think you might come back for a 2nd try should the first one fail cause the ladder was too steep. You could bash the aluminum directly into the crack it's leaning on. Â Yup. Â The you could claim "first ladder ascents" of lots of new stuff. It would open up all kinds of possibilities. You could even do a guide book. Sounds like some climbs in Europe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Maybe Doolittle can pioneer some Via Ferrata routes in the US. How 'bout we start with SEWS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDoolittle Posted April 22, 2004 Author Share Posted April 22, 2004 (edited) A lot of Squish climbs could use a ladder to the first bolt. Â I think I'd prefer rap-laddering of laddering on lead. And with an aluminum ladder, you could fix it in place like Gripped suggests above without damaging the rock by beating the top of the thing into cracks like a bashie. But would a copper ladder be better? Edited April 22, 2004 by MrDoolittle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Screw that Via Ferrata noise, what we need at Washington Pass is a Telepherique. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDoolittle Posted April 22, 2004 Author Share Posted April 22, 2004 Yeah, it is a bit of a hike getting into those climbs. Maybe a tunnel inside of liberty bell, you could drive to the top, and walkways between the summits for link-ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Be careful or you might get inquiries from European contractors asking where they can submit bids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glacier Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 Whatever you do, make sure that you space the bolts 3-4 feet apart, so that the crux is still fiddling with clips and such instead of the gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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