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Rate the 5.9!


Peter_Puget

Squamish – Penny Lane  

204 members have voted

  1. 1. Squamish – Penny Lane

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Using and incredibly complicated method I have sumamrized the poll results @12:38pm. I threw out all votes for >10b<5.7. (Yea I know I meant to type 5.8)

 

See attachment. Ordering is from least consistent with guidebook rating to most consistant.

 

The obvious conclusion is that those areas with the most rainfall have the worst guidebooks! yelrotflmao.gif

 

PP bigdrink.gif

 

PS _ Just ignore the typos!

5a1a55ad0af4b_336971-PollResults-12-38.thumb.jpg.1b274ab6d515514ed7d03f382583ce04.jpg

Edited by Peter_Puget
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which one is absolutely nothing?
It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed.
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which one is absolutely nothing?
It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed.

 

Oh! I mixed up absolutely nothing with Blockhead...

 

yeah - Blockhead is a solid 5.9 (for one sequence of moves)

 

Absolutely nothing is like 5.8 (at the most).

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which one is absolutely nothing?
It is the middle of five routes on We Did Rock. It used to appear as 5.8 in an earlier guidebook, but somehow got upgraded. The other four routes are definitely harder, especially Blockhead on the far right, which I would give a 5.9+ or a 5.10a- if such a thing existed.

 

Oh! I mixed up absolutely nothing with Blockhead...

 

yeah - Blockhead is a solid 5.9 (for one sequence of moves)

 

Absolutely nothing is like 5.8 (at the most).

 

you guys are so lame. absolutely nothing was my first 5.9 sport lead. cry.gif please let me think it was 5.9 (i gave it 5.8)

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.10+ = .10c/d < .11a

.8+ = pretty hard for 5.8 < .9

I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder:

5.4 to 5.8

5.10a

5.9

5.8+

5.10b

5.9+

5.11a

5.10c

5.8 squeeze

5.10d

5.11b

5.10+

5.9 ow

5.12a

5.11c

5.11d

5.10 ow

5.12b

5.11+

5.12c

and so on...

up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2

 

Other interpretations of our beloved YDS?

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ok thanks cbs. the climb just to the right of absolute nothing has more awkward moves to get over the bulge - maybe those moves are 5.9 but AN is probably an 8.

 

What you're calling blockhead is the climb on the right that does a little traverse then goes up diagonally and ends at some funky homemade anchors? If it is that's the best route in that section, I thought it was fun. The second best is probably just to the left - the one that's the last of the line of slab routes.

 

I'll be there tomorrow after work, so I'll report back here with move by move beta yellaf.gif

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5.4 to 5.8

Culbert 4th class

5.10a

5.9

5.8+

Beckey "Somewhat Brushy Approach"

5.10b

Croft 4th class

Beckey "Obvious Gully"

5.9+

5.11a

Hank Mather 5.8

5.10c

5.8 squeeze

Beckey "Scramble"

5.10d

5.11b

5.10+

5.9 ow

Beckey "4th Class"

5.12a

5.11c

5.11d

5.10 ow

5.12b

5.11+

5.12c

and so on...

up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2

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I think that route #4 between Absolutely Nothing and Blockhead is called Some Drugs. There is a trick to it such that if you know it, the crux isn't hard at all. There is a place where you need to put your foot behind you against an opposing face, or something like that. The fun is in figuring it out. When it seems hard, start thinking creatively. BTW, you're supposted to put the phrase "We did" before all the route names.

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Attached is a summary of the poll at 9am this morning. I calculated the rating by assigning a value to each poll option as follows: 5.8 =8, 5.9=9, 5.10a=10, 5.10b=11. I then multiplied the number of votes for each option by the option’s assigned values. Summed the results and divided by the total number of votes. Again I ignored the fifth option.

 

The most accurately rated route according to the calculation method is the Fun 5.9 at Royal Columns. (Check out the almost perfect bell curve) Since the actual identity of this route is uncertain I give the runner up the title: Moonshine Dihedral at Smith!

 

Attacked from a different angle the route with the greatest number of respondents agreeing with the guidebook rating is Outerspace!

 

What’s amazing is how diverse the opinions turned out to be.

 

PP bigdrink.gif

337470-9am422.thumb.jpg.4ef698611d8248bff2b56142efb8ff21.jpg

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