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[TR] Colchuck Peak- North Buttress Couloir 4/18/2004


Timcb

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Climb: Colchuck Peak-North Buttress Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 4/18/2004

 

Trip Report:

Climbed sunday with excellent conditions. We found the entire route completely untracked. Snow in the bottom third of the couloir was exceptional. Pickets were immediately bomber, some step kicking was possible, and picks were effective daggers. This was quite a relief, as we had been warned saturday evening while coming up that up to 10 inches of fresh had fallen on the mountain (and that someone was buried- but ok?- in an avy on the TC).

 

As we climbed, we found deeper and deeper areas of unconsolidated snow, but we assessed the avy danger as fairly low. Snow would have come off in sloughs, as it was not very heavy and the hard crust below didn't feel like that great of a slide plane. Wind slabs had not developed. My partner and I were conservative about safety, using both second tools and running belays the entire way. Although we probably would have been fine with just one or the other, having both added a reassuring margin of security on a climb that was certainly amoung both of our most challenging.

 

Anyway, snow was a lot lighter and slowed travel as we neared the end of our second running belay "pitch" at the top of the couloir. We hung out at the notch for a good bit, enjoying the space to sit and rest and eat, while loving the views of Stuart and Sherpa and Colchuck's fun NW face. Once the weather (which had been bluebird) began to deteriorate, we moved on, starting with the slightly climbing traverse out onto the face. The second pitch on the NW face was probably the most interesting, as we were in the middle of the face, on the steepest snow (50+ deg). For a couple hundred feet or so, we alternatingly found rocks under only 1.5' of loose snow or holes between rocks where our steps would punch through into voids. This was also the point where the weather was most unsettled and the snow came pretty consistently- visibility was reduced to 200'. Wind would bring waves of spindrift down onto our stances.

 

After three pitches on the face, we passed through the short, broad gully at the top of the face. There, where we expected a short walk around and up to the top, we found a pitch of snowcovered exposed 3rd and 4th class rock which gave the climb a bit of a thrill at the very top. We wound our way through this step and were shortly able to cross the summit ridge onto the plateau of the east side.

 

While we were packing our technical gear away, the clouds suddenly cleared and we were treated to spectacular winter views. Very rewarding after an exciting climb. The descent was relaxing and straightforward, with excellent plunge stepping (but skiing that powder would have been best).

 

The route was just as described in N+P. Excellent quality, super fun, a great way for us to push our skills.

 

The drive back to seattle that night was, as is typical, the most dangerous part of the trip.

 

Gear Notes:

an axe and a tool each

60 m rope

6 pickets

4 singles and 4 doubles (would have been nice to have a couple more doubles)

the even nuts, 4-12

green alien and BD cams .75 and 1 (super useful- used often)

pink tricam

2 mid sized hexes (could have left home).

 

Rock gear was very helpful in adding length and security to our running belays.

 

skis would have been great for the colchuck glacier descent. excellent powder up there.

 

Approach Notes:

road still a bit snow covered just before, though the 4x4s we saw parked there probably could have pushed through. this would have saved 1/2 to 3/4 mile of road walking. no flotation needed for trail on this cooler weekend.

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