Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
ryland_moore

Steins Pillar route info

Recommended Posts

Anyone out there have more specific beta on Steins Pillar than just the overall grad for the faces? All I've been able to find is that the faces go from 5.10 to 5.11. Nothing mentioned about sport or trad or mixed or pitches. Went out there for work last week and it makes monkey face look like a wuss! 00303l.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That thing is huge for sure. The setting is also super nice.

I am sure you have checked out Nick Dodge's book. It has route desriptions for the pillar, and the other rock in the valley. thumbs_up.gif

There is also a old school picture posted in the gallery of the pillar, PM poster.

From what I remember out of Dodge, the route is mixed with pins and gear, most of which is shit.

That all I know, good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go prepared to Summit, not to climb in the best style. It is a mix for sure on a couple of pitches, but never desparate. Seek Dodge and go Old School on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ryland-

As Wayne sez-go gansta style on it. Its a great route. Bring some nuts, a few pins and a few cams. If you are a solid 5.11 leader you'll be able to free climb the whole thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went up last year and got on the kind of NE face. After 4 shitty cam hooks in a row I decided that I should come back with pins but never did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There has been recent activity at Steins. Two years ago I bolted a line to climbers left of the 5.10d diheadral. It is called "Shasta's Spirit" it goes at 5.11d. To the left of that route down at the base is a 5.10a called Mass Wasting that I put up last summer. Some other folks from Bend/Redmond are putting up some routes on the other formations near Steins. Money,whiskey,sexy is a three pitch route that goes at 5.9+. It follows a slab on the downhill side of the middle formation. Rap off the other side. Two raps with one 60M rope. Those guys also did a route called "heat stroke" that I have not done that is in the 5.10 range. Heat Stroke is located on the farthest formation away from Steins Pillar. An individule put up a variation to the original route for the first pitch. Instead of climbing the chimney, head downhill around to the right and locate a slab that goes up to a bulge. This is called "Rocket ride" and goes at 5.10a. This deposits you on the large ledge where the second pitch to the original line heads up. The gear on the original line is large wood screws screwed into lead sleeves. Not much holding them in any more. (don't fall if you plan on freeing it). I doubt if any of it would hold a fall. The best pieces are the fixed pins and the new bolts that people have installed to bail off! There are also some pins driven into the lead sleeves where the screws have come out. The original line is not all that inspiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×