ryland_moore Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Anyone out there have more specific beta on Steins Pillar than just the overall grad for the faces? All I've been able to find is that the faces go from 5.10 to 5.11. Nothing mentioned about sport or trad or mixed or pitches. Went out there for work last week and it makes monkey face look like a wuss! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 That thing is huge for sure. The setting is also super nice. I am sure you have checked out Nick Dodge's book. It has route desriptions for the pillar, and the other rock in the valley. There is also a old school picture posted in the gallery of the pillar, PM poster. From what I remember out of Dodge, the route is mixed with pins and gear, most of which is shit. That all I know, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 Go prepared to Summit, not to climb in the best style. It is a mix for sure on a couple of pitches, but never desparate. Seek Dodge and go Old School on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Ryland- As Wayne sez-go gansta style on it. Its a great route. Bring some nuts, a few pins and a few cams. If you are a solid 5.11 leader you'll be able to free climb the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 I went up last year and got on the kind of NE face. After 4 shitty cam hooks in a row I decided that I should come back with pins but never did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AFIVE Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 There has been recent activity at Steins. Two years ago I bolted a line to climbers left of the 5.10d diheadral. It is called "Shasta's Spirit" it goes at 5.11d. To the left of that route down at the base is a 5.10a called Mass Wasting that I put up last summer. Some other folks from Bend/Redmond are putting up some routes on the other formations near Steins. Money,whiskey,sexy is a three pitch route that goes at 5.9+. It follows a slab on the downhill side of the middle formation. Rap off the other side. Two raps with one 60M rope. Those guys also did a route called "heat stroke" that I have not done that is in the 5.10 range. Heat Stroke is located on the farthest formation away from Steins Pillar. An individule put up a variation to the original route for the first pitch. Instead of climbing the chimney, head downhill around to the right and locate a slab that goes up to a bulge. This is called "Rocket ride" and goes at 5.10a. This deposits you on the large ledge where the second pitch to the original line heads up. The gear on the original line is large wood screws screwed into lead sleeves. Not much holding them in any more. (don't fall if you plan on freeing it). I doubt if any of it would hold a fall. The best pieces are the fixed pins and the new bolts that people have installed to bail off! There are also some pins driven into the lead sleeves where the screws have come out. The original line is not all that inspiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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