Jump to content

New Route Ethics in Leavenworth


dberdinka

Recommended Posts

quote:

Originally posted by JayB:

quote:

Originally posted by pope:

[qb]I see little harm in gym climbing, or even sport climbing when it's confined to a chossy cliff.

This, however, is progress.

I was just kidding there, hombre. I'll have to remember to use a smiley-face next time.

 

Best Regards,

 

[ 06-19-2002, 05:49 PM: Message edited by: JayB ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 207
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

[QB]I chopped bolts today. [big Grin]

I think I'll chop bolts tomorrow. [big Grin]

 

[smile] Can you say: "Warm and fuzzy?" [smile]

 

 

I just got some titanium bolts from a friend at boeing and I am off to retro bolt one of your vantage choss piles, lets see if you can chop faster than i can bolt.I don't think so!!!

eat this butt muncher [Moon]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And part two of my question: what can be done when the removal of offensive bolts does not seem to accomplish what I believe to be the desired result: the alteration of bolting practices? I have held out the Whipsaw incident as an example more than once on this board. I believe it took place over ten years ago, and I believe that it did absolutely nothing to stem the tide of bolting in Frenchmen's Coulee. In my mind, it is clear that the removal of bolts that are perceived as offensive does not solve the ongoing problem although it may be satisfying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by mattp:

what can be done when the removal of offensive bolts does not seem to accomplish ... the alteration of bolting practices?

I think that's the crux of the biscuit for sure Matt. Your calm debate style brings to mind that old sea stack, the Old Man of Hoy, resolutely upright while lashed all about by spray. Not that I'm trying to pick fights with any of the strong opinions here about, I just wanted to tip my hat to Matt. I wish I had an answer, I'll be thinking on it for a few days while I'm out of town.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your support Pope I needed it. But pull you pants up the whole castrati thing is a bit out there.

 

Truly Mattp is trying to stear the ship steady and yet I wonder is it worth it? Over one year ago I began posting in a series of posts being as steady as Mattp. Someone even told me once "Peter your nice guy methods will get you know where." After awhile I agreed but still remained reactive.

 

How many routes are there at the Pearly Gates? 30, 40, 50? So two have suspect bolts. Hardly an epidemic. If more people posted here then perhaps we'd have more of a consensus. As it is One man shouts witch and the rest scream burn her!

 

The first post on this thread stated something to the effect of "I'm not trying to start a flame war" Are we really to believe that?

 

Syz writes:that Viktor is bolting cracks expresssly to create a market for new books. Later he changes his story. Did he ever talk to Viktor?

 

I say Mattp send a pm to Viktor ask him how many negative comments he has recieved and out of those how many came from cc.com. I bet almost none have. But how many jerks have come online and slammed him and/or his friends. Hey listen up guys those insults are personal and they aren't limited to those in Leavenworth. Mattp, I await your report. Pope will you have sent him a note with your concerns? I doubt it. Sad. Sad. Sad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:

...just how tall are you guys? My pop sensibility says smaller than average.

 

So come on fess up how tall are you? If I had met you I wouldn't be asking.

 

Average US male 5' 10" I bet your shorter!

Well, Kerns, I am 5'10".

Did someone let the cat out of the bag?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Retro:

 

I mean no disrespect by using those terms. But when you decide to take the law into your own hands, when you state that you don't care what anybody else thinks, and when you say you are going to keep going back and removing the offending bolts if they reappear, I call that vigilantism. And when you and others talk in terms that sound like a holy war against excessive bolting, and when you and they suggest that they are showing great leadership and trying to enlighten the uninformed masses, I call that a heroic crusade. Keep up the good fight – I mean that because you make a lot of good points -- but if you are going to be such an aggressive and vocal advocate you will have to accept the fact that not everybody likes everything about what you are doing.

 

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mattp you say "take the law into his own hands".

 

I would suggest, in the continued absence of gun toting Rock Cops kinda like Larry The Nut Tool who would arrest nefarious perpetrators bolting cracks, that it is up to the climbers as a group both to police themselves, and to deal with ethical transgressions (LAWBREAKERS in your metaphor) by doing what everyone agrees should be done namely removing the bolts from beside the cracks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dru -

 

Should we see if we can get peace-officer Larry to issue tickets for excessive or irresponsible bolting? I bet he could be good at this -- if we could get him to leave his cruiser and hike up the mountainsides. Then our canyon could be saved and we wouldn't have to fear encounters of larry kind in the parking lot because he'd be hiding in the bushes up at the Pearly Gates or somewhere where he could surely solve the crime of the century.

 

I agree with you that it is up to us to act, and I indicated my support for some bolt removal -- like the principal that bolts do not belong where natural protection exists, I believe that nearly everybody who has participated in this debate agrees that there are at least some offensive bolts in the Icicle Creek canyon that should be removed. What we're talking about is how to undertake such a program and how to talk about it, before and after.

 

Matt

 

[ 06-19-2002, 12:53 PM: Message edited by: mattp ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Crackbolter:

I think Mitch has offended just about every climber that I admire. The cheese stands alone on this one. I always thought that there was a sense of comrodery with all of the crag caretakers. Mitch, are you out to change this philosophy?

You need a hug, or what?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by mattp:

Dru -

 

Should we see if we can get peace-officer Larry to issue tickets for excessive or irresponsible bolting? I bet he could be good at this -- if we could get him to leave his cruiser and hike up the mountainsides. Then our canyon could be saved and we wouldn't have to fear encounters of larry kind in the parking lot because he'd be hiding in the bushes up at the Pearly Gates or somewhere where he could surely solve the crime of the century.

[laf]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dennis, I believe you did as much or more to steer this discussion into the toilet than anybody. Why would you call Puget an asshole -- because you don't agree with him? And what is it that you don't agree with? He has repeatedly stated that bolts do not belong next to cracks -- isn't this your main point? -- but he argues that one cannot blame it all on generation x, Viktor's motivation to sell guidebooks, or the simple fact that everyone else in the world is an asshole.

 

In another thread, Peter says he is signing off the board. I don't like the personal attack and I was sorry to see him start talking about penis size and so forth, but I will be sorry to see him go. As long as there are those who like to spew insults and hatred in the name of saving the rock, this board needs people like Puget or it is in danger of becoming a forum for a handful of guys to preach to theirselves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...