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lexington east face


scott

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I did the route in 1996, so I don't have anything to tell you about the new bolt or 2x4's; however, I can tell you this: The initial part of the pitch in question starts with a hard move into an overhanging offwidth/chimney deal, but quickly becomes more secure. At the time there was a tatty fixed line with several knots tied in it hanging down from a chockstone about 20-25 feet above the start of the pitch, to go with a really old looking 1/4 inch bolt. I want to say that a #5 camalot or a big bro would work here, but since I had neither with me on the climb don't take my word for it. You then climb onto the above mentioned chockstone, where you get a rest. Above looms a 5.7 full-on chimney. I don't remember it being all that hard to climb but I do recall that there isn't any protection for awhile-maybe 20-30 feet with the flat top of the chockstone directly below you to land on if you skate here, so don't biff it. If you have any chimney skills at all you'll be fine- it ain't that bad.

Above this pitch is a pitch or two of wide, tiring crack climbing. Bring at least 1 #4 camalot. The pitch before the chimney is very cool- airy and little strenuous. Finally, be careful on the first pitch. The rock route out of the moat is often wet, and, although the climbing is fairly easy, protection is thin and infrequent on alternately slabby downsloping rock and decomposing granite. It gets really good after about 80 feet or so. Enjoy, the route is quite a workout.

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You are correct about the length. It is not 90 ft. It wass a bit run out for us though as we had nolarge cams and the bolts are at the bottom. I thought it was about 30-40 ft till you got to a large bolck/chockstone? whatever it was it gave decent pro. But you are technicaly correct it isn't 90 but it has been about 2 years give it a few more and I amsure my memory will fail sufficiently for it to be about...oh say ...150' wink.gif

 

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Yeah,the chockstone, from which the old knotted fixed line was dangling, I seem to remember being about 30 feet from the belay, but the bolt and the fixed line made that part protect well for me. If it had been just the bolt it would have been worse for sure. But I thought the real runout to be above the chockstone- easier climbing but no pro at all for awhile directly over a nice ledge...

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