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ken4ord

[TR] Squamish- rock 4/10/2004

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Climb: Squamish-rock

 

Date of Climb: 4/10-12/2004

 

Trip Report:

Misti and I took off from Seattle early Friday morning and made the drive up to Vancouver. First stop MEC the meca of outdoor gear shit, after a few quick purchase we were off again. I was dying to get up there. It was clear and warn and was wound. We showed up in the parking lot around 2 - 3 pm and decide to do a quick run up Banana Peel or some variation of it. After a quick five pitch (thanks to my long rope) we were at the top. Very nice hike for the most part. Hiked down and we were at the parking lot in know time.

 

With daylight left I was still interested in doing some more climbing, but instead we decide to get some grub and find a place to throw down. After a little searching we found a place near some other campers, right next to the river. Awesome spot, camper fire going, Pacifico's w/lime, and salmon steaks, cous-cous, and seared greens on the menu how can you go wrong? Well maybe we could have picked a site that wasn't so near the road, a couple of times in the night our tent would be lit up, and sounds of a 4x4 with Snoop Dog blasting would pass, lucky for us that last pass was at 10:30, then were we able to get some zzzzz's.

 

The plan next day was to meet up with Fern at Starbucks, which we did. After copious amounts of caffine we were ready to start the day. First on the agenda, was to climb Calculus Crack. Fern lead the first pitch, with Misti and myself following the fun jungle gym pitch. I got on the second doing the 10a pitch, another fun pitch, though a little wet in the finger tip crack, but the gear was good, and then belayed Misti and Fern up together as well. Then Fern so graciously handed over all of the pitches on Claculus Crack with her and Misti simu climbing. Real enjoyable climb, the first pitch really easy wide, low angled crack. The second started with fingers to hand, and was a real rope stretcher with 55m lines. From there it was just a scramble to the ledge. We made our way to memorial ledge and sat and ate some food and took in the view. Next we made our way over to Merci Me, after a lot of fourth classing and hiking we eventually ended up there. I graciously/luckily handed over those two pitches to Fern. Man they were spicy, Fern looked solid all the way up both even with some 30-40 foot run-outs. After that we decided it was Miller time, ate some food drank some beer and contemplated whether or not to get on another route. Eventually we decide on Triage Arete at the Smoke Bluff's. Rope gun Fern had her bottle of courage in stomach and was ready to rock, and she did. I briefly thought about pulling the rope then decide to just take the TR ride to the top instead. After the three of us climbed the arete we decide it really was Miller time and headed to the brew pub, beers and grub.

 

Sat down and drank, ate, and chatted. I was a cheap drunk that night and pretty much called it an evening pretty early. This time we skipped on the site we had before and crashed near the Chief, much quieter night, or maybe I just passed out a lot sooner.

 

Again we found ourselves at Bucky's pounding coffee, ah what to do. Well after two double I was ready to hit the cliff. Today we decided on cragging. So we went to Murrin Park, hadn't been there so decided to check it out. First thing down was Shaman. It was pretty decent, fun climbing, but a little dirty. Once we had a rope on that we were able to TR to other two other climbs that share the same anchor. Again these were dirty and similar climbing, but at least it was some mileage. Next we made our way over to Zoe. Man what a nice climb that is, if you haven't done it definitely get on that shit. It's good. Goes at 10a and the rock is really clean. We then threw a rope on the 11c next to it another really nice climb. I ended up TRing it twice and both times with a lot of grunting and huffing and two hangs each run I was able to get myself up the thing. Very nice climb for a sport route, nice enough where I want to try pulling that thing on lead when I am more fresh.

 

After that we hit the road and made our way back to Seattle. Good weekend.

 

Pics to follow soon.

 

Gear Notes:

Gear & Beer. What else do you need? Ok maybe some of the that BC hahaha.gif

 

Approach Notes:

The road is paved for crying out loud. Can't get any easier.

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It was clear and warn and was wound.
confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

 

Ok Clear and WARM but 'was wound' WTF??? confused.gif

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It was clear and warn and was wound.
confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

 

Ok Clear and WARM but 'was wound' WTF??? confused.gif

 

It was clear and warm and I was wound. You know ready to go climb. It's Monday and I am at work. cantfocus.gif

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I got on the second doing the 10a pitch, another fun pitch, though a little wet in the finger tip crack, but the gear was good

 

this is St Vitus Dance Direct and it is a nice alternative to the 2nd wet bushy approach pitch on the N. Buttress of the Apron, but it is often wet.

 

thx Ken bigdrink.gif

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Nice trip report...glad you guys and gals had a good time in superb weather.

 

I went to Squishy on Sunday with a friend and tried to find a climb on the back side of the Chief. According to the guide, it should take "45 to 1 hr". Well, it took us 7 hours to find the bloody crag! By the time we got there, it was too late to do it. cry.gif All I have to say is that Kevin McLane's description on "How to get there" SUCKS! mad.gif Oh yeah, we had a great time.

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Alright here is the photos to complement the TR.

 

Here is Misti gettin in the groove on Banana Peel. Not really sure if we were on route, since the route seems to wander.

3794Misti_on_Banana_Peel-med.jpg

The view we had after topping out.

3794fc_049-med.jpg

 

The next day on the first approach pitch to Calculus Crack. Really not as dirty as it might appear.

3794fc_053-med.jpg

Fern and myself chillin' on Memorial Ledge contemplating what is next on the agenda.

3794fc_060-med.jpg

Merci me, we decided to climb Merci Me. I graciously handed over the lead to Fern on the next two pitches. Getting ready at the start.

3794fc_062-med.jpg

Me seconding the first pitch.

3794Merci_Me-med.jpg

Fern leading the second pitch and yes that first clip is as far as it looks and the second even farther.

3794Fern_on_Merci_Me-med.jpg

 

And the last day just doing some craggin'. Me leading first pitch of the Shaman.

3794fc_081-med.jpg

Misti seconding the Zoe, a most excellent 10a bolted line.

3794Misti_on_Zoe-med.jpg

 

End of story.

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hey ken did you guys do Shaman p2? Its real good - gear protected face climbing, Tri Cam special thumbs_up.gif

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No Dru, we only brought single line with us and were in craggin' mode, though it looked like I could have reached the anchors in a sigle pitch. Next time cause that second pitch seemed to be cleaner and probably nicer climbing.

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Alright here is the photos to complement the TR.

Here is Misti gettin in the groove on Banana Peel. Not really sure if we were on route, since the route seems to wander.

3794Misti_on_Banana_Peel-med.jpg

 

That's on Bananna Peel alright. I did it with my niece Alison on Friday. Ali belayed on one of the small trees just below the climber and that gave her enough rope to make the block for a belay. I lead the last bit to the ledge from the block - my only leading on the climb, but then I am 60 years old. Also fat and unfit but that's nothing new.

 

Last time I lead it was 15 years ago with my nephews. BP was the first climb of any kind I ever lead on my first trip to Squamish in 1975.

 

This year I had to totally hangdog the vertical bit, but managed to pad my way up the rest. We made decent time on the ascent but at the top my ancient unfit body was feeling pretty weak and it took me 2 hours to get back to the road through the trees.

 

Great weekend though, not even a hint of rain until this morning.

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In response to Stemalot's trouble finding the Backside... the 2005 McLane guide has always led me well, if anyone's planning on avoiding these areas due to navigational problems - I imagine alot of folk had troubles finding it in the prior issues. There is amAZing rock back there.

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