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[TR] Shuksan- North Face 4/10/2004


JasonG
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Climb: Shuksan-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 4/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

DR, my wife and a friend headed up on Friday to a nice dry bivy on the ridge below the North Face (3 hours from the White Salmon Lodge). Got going by 5am on Sat. and had pretty good, albeit variable, conditions on the face. Some hard crusty cramponing, some ankle deep soft stuff, and some windslab. It took us about 2.5 hours up to the shoulder and another couple of hours to the summit. Great weather, good snow conditions greeted us pretty much the whole day, with an especially fast descent down the White Salmon Glacier. We were back at the cars by 4pm, and drinking beer and eating pizza at the Beer Shrine by 6pm (one of the best parts of the day) A fun, and more moderate than expected route. Good times!!!

 

Gear Notes:

Brought a couple pickets, one screw per team (didn't need any of it), 40m 8.5mm ropes, second tool (only used on the summit pyramid). Oh, and lots of Canadian Rye bread (didn't use). Maybe a copy of "The Perfect Storm" (didn't read).

 

Approach Notes:

Beware of the deep slop low on the White Salmon!!

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