scott Posted April 10, 2004 Share Posted April 10, 2004 Climb: el cap-freeblast Date of Climb: 5/10/2004 Trip Report: the first ten pitches of salathe make a good day climb. it is rated 11b free -- we climbed 10b a0 and did it in about 7 hours valley to valley. not very fast but still a good day out. the crux pitch is the 5th pitch or so, following a thin crack that peters out into discontinuous pin scars taking pinky sized offsets. the crack thins out as it goes over a small overlap / roof, and then some easy but very exposed slabby face climbing to the first bolt above. from there it is very exposed slab climbing with well spaced bolts. this is given 5.8 ao or 11b in supertopo and i guess i won't argue, except to say that felt that i was climbing harder than 5.8, but was not climbing 11b either. the chimney behind the half dollar was wet and a bit of a grunt. there are lines fixed from the top of the tenth to the valley floor, but these lines are old and stiff, and are taking up the entire anchor, so that is is not really possible to use your own lines to rap. these fixed lines should be attached to the top of the chains near the bolts, leaving the bottom links for those who want to rap their own lines. in the sun all day. the first and fourth pitches are great mid 5.10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Man, thanks for the TR Scott, I can almost feel the breeze on my forehead and the sun on my back......ahhhhhhh, damn what a feeling. Sounds like an exellent time was had by all of you - thanks again for sharing. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 what else does the future hold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 exactly what i was wondering. i looked at freeblast last summer - looks like a really fun bit of climbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 I remember it about the same. Nice TR Scott. I remember being about 5-6 pitches up and seeing this reddish brown looking stuff all over the rock next to the belay. At the time I thought it was dried blood of an unlucky climber but now looking back I'll bet it was some F@#$er on the shield's thrown off shit. Ahh the Capitan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 The Free Blast was more like an Aid Slog for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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