Chad_A Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 Climb: Mt Hood-Sandy Headwall Date of Climb: 4/8/2004 Trip Report: Finally did it! Here's the long and short of it. Left T-line at 2:20 am, up to the top of Palmer @ 3:45. Put on warmer layers, and 20 minutes later, headed toward Illumination Saddle. At the saddle, 30 minutes later or so, roped up, sorted the gear, took some pics, and started across. I had the fortune of leading the traverse, and gaining the experience of route finding off of Yocum. The ramp was obvious; the slope going across it was steeper than I had planned. The snow was mixed hardpack/powder, and occasionally, I'd see other's footprints. Also, the traverse was longer than I'd perceived. Getting down off of the ridge was the crux, as I had been told that it would be. On belay, I worked my way up and down the ridge, looking for a way down, but a moat/crevasse had completely opened up, and only a few fragile snowbridges remained, which I mainly could only see from higher on the ridge. On belay, I downclimbed to a snowbridge, (put in a picket, while I was at it; mainly psychological protection)and saw others footprints on it, as well, and knew that it was one way that had been used to get across to the glacier. Well, it was then that I took my first crevasse fall, as I plunged in. There was a nice floor in it, and I fell so softly, that the rope never had a chance to catch my fall. I laughed, and said "oh, man, what am I laughing at? Get the hell out of here, dumbass!" Did just that. The gents following did the same, only they simply jumped over. We traversed to the point, where we were to start up. Since it was straightforward climbing from that point, we unroped, and started up. It became evident that the routefinding, and lack of sleep, had worn me out because the were leaving me behind quickly, once we started ascending. We stopped to take a couple of breaks; one at the top of the hourglass, and once at the Queens Chair. We walked the summit ridge in close proximity to each other, and ended up at the summit at 10:40. Ate something took pics, talked about how much fun we had, and headed down. Then, we huckleberried-it. Thanks for reading. I'll post a couple of pics if I get a chance. By the way, to the gent that emailed me, and wanted to come along this week, I hope he doesn't take offense that I didn't end up inviting him. I had another climber that wanted to go that I had always wanted to go with, and we ended up as a team of three. Had I had a chance, I would've invited him along, and did two teams of two. When he reads this, he'll know that it's him that I'm addressing. Please keep in contact, man, I hope to climb with you sometime soon. Gear Notes: Pickets, crampons, standard ice axe, second tool, screws (didn't use), biners, slings, etc. Approach Notes: Snow was mainly perfect. Alternated between icy hardpack, and some powder that you could kick into. Reid and Sandy are still very closed-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 hah I think I fell in that same crevasse a few years ago. Spooky since my partner was hanging out on some steep ice at the time. I think he was more scared than I was, but he held me and I was only in up to my chest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldog Posted April 10, 2004 Share Posted April 10, 2004 Sounds like you had a great one. Long time out, what time did you get back to TL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted April 10, 2004 Author Share Posted April 10, 2004 Yeah, the majority of the time spent was getting down off of Yocum. I didn't look at the watch, but it took me a while to get down. One of the guys had a split board, so as soon as he picked it up from the top of Palmer, he was history. The other guy prolly made it down about twenty minutes before I did; my knees were aching something fierce, and I have good knees! I pity the foo who has bad ones. It was a great day out, though. Very satisfying; one more off the list. Now, if that damn North Ridge of Baker would cooperate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted April 10, 2004 Author Share Posted April 10, 2004 Uhh, I meant to say that the majority of time was spent routefinding, and getting down off of Yocum, onto the Sandy. And, when I said that I didn't look at my watch, and that it took me a while to get down, I was speaking of the descent from the summit. Sheesh, I didn't word that very well last night...damn Bridgeport IPA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 10, 2004 Share Posted April 10, 2004 nice! ice/rockfall tame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted April 10, 2004 Share Posted April 10, 2004 nice! ice/rockfall tame? Better than tame. Almost nonexistant. We all took a few smallish hits on the traverse between Yokum and where we started up, but central part of the face itself was remarkably quiet. Really great conditions all the way to the top. And no wind to speak of until we hit the crest above the headwall. We met a guy up top who had camped on the Snow Dome and had come up the right side of the Eliot Headwall. He said winds were near 50 all night long at his camp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted April 14, 2004 Author Share Posted April 14, 2004 Man, was that ever a nice climb. Thanks to DonnV, and David, for attending! I don't think that we could've asked for better conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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