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Class 4 on the Ellinor/Washinton Traverse?


pzack

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I'm heading out to do the Ellinor/Washingonton Traverse this weekend. I'm hoping to find a route that has one or two pitches of class 4 or low class 5 and isn't totally contrived. Any suggestions?

 

One person mentioned that you can climb "A" Peak for a little bit of class 4.

 

How is the traverse on to Mt. Washington if you stay high?

 

Thanks in advance!

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The ridge between Ellinor and Washington is sharp in some spots. Be careful of cornices up there. You could drop down into Big Creek Basin here and there to avoid nasty parts of the ridge. There's plenty of class 4 rock up there to mess around on. "A" peak is a very short climb that's along the traverse. Have fun and be safe.

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CP is right that the ridge between Ellinor and Washington is sharp in "some places." Especially with cornices and such, it would be a pretty good feat to stay on the actual crest the whole way. If you simply want to connect the two peaks, I think it is preferable to drop into Jefferson Creek than to traverse the "front" side. You won't get your couple of pitches of class 4 that way, though, except the summit block itself on Washington may resemble class 4 for a very short bit at this time of year.

 

Here's Ellinor as seen from Washington, a little later in the Spring. (from Eric's Basecamp site)

 

Washington-Ellinor3.jpg

 

And here's looking back the other way:

 

Washington-Ellinor1.jpg

 

In both pictures, you can see the open snow slopes in Jefferson Creek that connect the two peaks via short gullies at either end.

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Thanks again everyone. We ended up dropping down a somewhat steep chute to get to the South side of Washington (5300') and then climbed via route 1. We found a little bit of class 4 on "A" Peak. The weather was awesome this weekend!

 

2829SEWT0093.jpg

We rappelled down the centeral, wider gully to the left of the cornice.

2829ellinore_rappel.jpg

Some climbers might forgo the rappel and simply downclimb.

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Nice work Pzack, sounds like a great time. I was up on Jefferson Peak on Sunday enjoying the weather as well. How was that catwalk on Washington?

Actually, I stayed below on Washington while some folks went up (this was part of a class/fieldtrip). They said the catwalk was exposed, but easy to walk across.

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