Sol Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Heads up folks. Last thursday while leading the 11a extension to the third pithc of Heart of the Country, the giant coffee-table sized flake that you pull on to get into the crack made a very loud pop and subsequent creak then pulled out about a 1/2 inch . If that thing goes with people below on GM or Phone calls from the dead the proabability of survival is low. As much as I love Index, it is an exfoliating choss pile, be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 You've got some bad ju-ju going on there with rockfall bro. I ain't climbing anywhere near you there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 get a crowbar up there on a weekday and "send it!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan_taylor Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Maybe it needs a nighttime courtesy trundle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Easier said than done. My good friend D***** climbed the first pitch of Magic Fern. The giant chockstone that serves as an anchor shifted, causing the insitsu rappel slings to slip off. The chockstone hung there, supported by an inch and a half of one side of the flake. The thing would now wiggle back and forth when you touched it. D***** lived that day, caught by a single cam shoved into a crack at his feet. Â With our blood up, we hiked to the base with a 7 pound sledge hammer and large j-bar. Â Nothing says fun like swinging a sledge hammer while on rappel. you have nothing to push off of.... The chockstone came out, thundering down where it would have killed the belayer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 It can take an amazing amount of work to pry off what seems to be a very loose flake sometimes. An extra long snow picket can be a useful tool here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Go wit da Gorilla Bar yo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 This is using a 5' long digging bar. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDoolittle Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Mix ammonium nitrate with diesel fuel. Add home-made blasting cap and plenty of hobby wick. Place improvised explosive device behind offensive rock. Light wick. Evacuate the area. Cover ears and open mouth to protect hearing from overpressure. Enjoy loud boom. Repeat as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Mix ammonium nitrate with diesel fuel. Add home-made blasting cap and plenty of hobby wick. Place improvised explosive device behind offensive rock. Light wick. Evacuate the area. Cover ears and open mouth to protect hearing from overpressure. Enjoy loud boom. Repeat as necessary. Â AID!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 So is the flake gone yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 feh  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 hah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
None Posted April 16, 2004 Share Posted April 16, 2004 but isn't Magic Fern a fun route. like yosemite quality crack climbing even though kind of short. toddler out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted April 16, 2004 Share Posted April 16, 2004 There's a flake on the 2nd pitch of Onlime at Static Point that would be fun to pry off. You might have to replace the bolts below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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