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Alyosha

Good beginner areas at Smith Rock?

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I'll be going to Smith next Monday (the 12th). My partner is looking to lead 5.7-5.8ish trad; I am looking to lead 5.5-5.6ish trad. Routes that protect nicely would be preferable, obviously. Could someone suggest which area(s) at Smith we should try?

 

Thank you

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Red Wall - Super Slab (5.6), Moscow (5.6) and Peking (5.8). You could also try Spiderman and In and Out of Harm's Way and/or the Westside Variation of Monkey Face to the rap off at the notch.

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If you make a choice between superslab and moscow, do superslab, way way better than moscow imo. if you can bring two ropes you can rap and you won't have to walk off.

 

Winter's recommendation of the first two pitches of west side of monkey face is right on. Really really fun 5.8 that protects well. The only other thing that comes to mind is the single pitch 5.7 lyco...(something) next to captain zenolith and helium woman.

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...Lycopodophyta - avoid if you can (I hated it, anyway)...

 

If you climb Moscow, bring a large cam (#3, #4 camalot) or two, there is a wide section up higher that you will enjoy more if you have a wide cam

 

First p. of Spiderman (the left side of buttress, not right) is a good 5.5-ish trad lead as I recall.

 

Otherwise, there isnt much at Smith for the 5.8 trad leader.

 

Alex

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lion's jaw is 5.8

and moonshine dihedral isn't a hard 5.9 with great pro

first pitch of clingon is 5.8 over by snake rock.

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yeah cinn. slab. A large piece for the second pitch might make things more comfortable (largest hex for example)

 

There is also Sky Chimney, multipitch 5.7 and Sky Ridge (5.8 bolts to 5.7 trad traverse).

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Go to Koala Rock, nice two-three pitch 5.6. Brogan's Spire is kind of rotten and runout, but only 5.3 or so, and I thought it was fun.

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On the other side of the river in the lower gorge has some nice .7 and up climbs. Since your there on monday I second the moscow, super slab area for nice well protected moderates. I might also add stadender ridge and the marsupials for a little more remote climbing and easy trad.

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The fourth horseman is very very good and on a weekday would be even better. This is one of my favorite 5.8 hand cracks = take first pitck of Fridays jinx (not that fun but alright). Then head up and out left for the second pitch into the crack of infinity straight in crack, once over the bulge head back right and up to the top of Fridays Jinx. Pack animal is great too. White satin (5.9 but very protectable) is very good with easy and harder pitches for both people to lead. The west face variation is also killer take the left hand start over the bulge (may be tricky for a new leader, but way safer than the right hand start) then take the left and pitch for pitch two. Anything in the gorge with a few stars and koala rock has some good routes. The first pitch of peking kicks ass. Spiderman rocks especially on a weekday when the lines are gone. A killer day would be to climb moscow or peking, walk off over the top and do spiderman and finish up with white satin or sky ridge.

feel the stoke!

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Moonshine Dihedral is probably not the best choice for persons not quite comfortable leading at least 5.8 trad. Given the steepishness of the upper section and the highly populated "office" below, it seems like a recipe for some type of disasterfuck.

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Go take a look at the right and left side of Textbooks over by the Student wall. There are a bunch of trad .7 & .8 that are side by side. Some of the cracks are a little wide, usually gear in the 2.5 to 3" range, but most protect very well.

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The skyridge traverse that Iaiaiaian mentioned would be my first recommendation

 

There are two cracks to the left of the bunny face...(Rabbit stew?) they are good 5.7 trad climb that eat gear, and never get too sketchy.

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There are also some really nice climbs over on the west side (mostly bolted) but well within the 5.7/8 range. I would also recommend the hike over to sunset slab. The book has it rated as 5.9, but other than being kinda long for a sport route (something like 12 bolts) I thought was kinda soft but definately 4 stars.

 

The supplement also shows two new climbs just over from Astriks(sp) pass, one 5.7 bolt the other 5.8 trad, in a sweet little notch, both looked like excellent climbs.

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Sunset slab is excellent, as are the climbs on the arete right of asterik pass. Another great climb is that 5.7 sporto start to spiderman. I can't remember the name dammit, and now its gonna eat at me. Spiderman is great! Spiderman is great ! Spiderman is great! Oh did I mention that Spiderman is.....

lycrophondyte is good, but its nice to have micros instead of passive,

Ohh smith, ohh smith,

where would we be without you,

our local crag,

not at all a hag,

but rather a kind,

gentle reprieve,

from the monotony

of singular pockets and ruts

bigdrink.gif

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I think that's called squashed spider. A game to play on that climb is you are not allowed to move your hands above your waist.

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I think that's called squashed spider. A game to play on that climb is you are not allowed to move your hands above your waist.

 

Waitasecond. You mean you move your hands above your waist in general when climbing? What're you, crazy? shocked.gif

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yes your skull dyno to the bucket on toxic was very impressive but you need not brag so.

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go to the gorge kinderkarten wall and text books have lots of options 5.6 5.7 5.8... SO low wall has an AWSOME 5.8 (I think) call pibsqueek. AWSOME (although short) climb grin.gif

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We ended up doing Super Slab and Moscow (so, we aren't fast). We both liked the Super Slab much more than the athletic Moscow. A #4 Friend worked very nicely in the wide crack near the top of Moscow. Thanks, Alex, for suggesting we bring something in that range.

 

Also, thanks for the route suggestions, everyone. I guess we'll have to go back and try them (wouldn't that be a chore! grin.gif)

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I guess we'll have to go back and try them (wouldn't that be a chore! grin.gif)

It's not a chore if you're having fun! cool.gif

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