Dennis_Harmon Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 This recent accident on Mt Hood again shows how stupid it is to tie into a rope unless you are actively belaying. If I die in the hills I hope that I do it alone. To take others with me, it seems to me, would be the supeme act of selfishness, not to mention, rude. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Hey Denis, You are so smart, and those poor dead bastards are so stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 If you die in the mountains, for sure you will die alone, cause nobody will climb with you, you come across as such a dick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PackOnMyBack Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: This recent accident on Mt Hood again shows how stupid it is to tie into a rope unless you are actively belaying. So let's see... If I'm walking on a glacier, unroped, with my wife or good friends, and one of them pops into a crevasse, and I can do nothing to help, then I'm the smart one? Â [ 06-05-2002, 11:24 AM: Message edited by: PackOnMyBack ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joekania Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Don't make me angry, Mr. Harmon, you wouldn't like me when I'm angry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Son_of_Caveman Posted June 6, 2002 Share Posted June 6, 2002 You're a prick, Harmon. Go blow yourself... Â [ 06-05-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: Son of Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: You're a prick, Harmon. Go blow yourself... yeah harmon stay off the ice in the icicle it may fall down on you on a sunny day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Hey Denis, You are so smart, and those poor dead bastards are so stupid. Statistics show that mortality has a profound impact on IQ. Â Dennis may be a dick and a prick, but he is smarter than dead people and I still climb with him. Â quote: Originally posted by Cavespawn: You're a prick, Harmon. Go blow yourself... Even though Mr Harmon is lots smarter than dead people, I don't think he can blow himself. Maybe you should give him a hand, Cave spawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 All gumbies climbing roped without a belay should use the longest rope possible so that they can have the greatest chance to floss an entire mountain face of other gumbie-climbers silly enough to stack up nuts-to-butts below them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 Retro you have such a way with words. Your makeing me feel all fuzzy inside. Ah yes the human race 98% no brains 98% assholes, this is why i prefer to do most of my mountaineering SOLO Pick you friends and climbing partners well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: This recent accident on Mt Hood again shows how stupid it is to tie into a rope unless you are actively belaying. If I die in the hills I hope that I do it alone. To take others with me, it seems to me, would be the supeme act of selfishness, not to mention, rude. Dennis I'll give Dennis the benifit of the doubt and assume that he was refering to ropes on a slope, not on a relatively flat glacier. Maybe his timing was insensitive, but I have to agree. You might think it is fun to bombast Dennis. But I bet most of you agree...it is stupid to not belay ( and anchor ) a rope when climbing. It is clear that the tragedy on Hood would have been mitigated if they had not been using ropes. Â A rope is a dangerous (and stupid) substitute for skilled self arrest. Â You know it and I know it...so blow your selves. Â [ 06-07-2002, 08:09 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 On traditional standard routes up 8000 meter peaks most people do not rope up (when they are away from the lower glacial activity). It becomes too dangerous in pulling your partner off the climbs with you......as in what happened with Mt. Hood. But Mt. Hood had a chain reaction where there were two parties below...... Â So not roping up may be the wisest of choices. It depends on your "experience" and risk with your partners. But I never understood why climbers roped up in the hogsback area in the first place becuase there is no glacial activity in that section (except for the bergschrund) and there is no 5th class climbing. I guess if people were roping up on a steep slope, then they should at least be putting pickets in--otherwise, what is the point of roping up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 on traditional standard routes up 800m peaks.... climbers do not rope up to each other because of the endless fixed ropes they are hooked to. Duh. And the trail of corpses wearing West Pole Brand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 I rope up on many glaciers. Especially early season I do even more. No need to fall into unseen holes..... Â I don't climb 8000m peaks and have no desire to. Â If I am on a broken glacier I always pick solid partners. Otherwise I don't travel on them. Â I can also understand the idea of soloing or going unroped too. I have been guilty if you say but not often... Â I have self arrested a partner of mine before and suffered the rope burn and bs on slushy warm snow on Rainier once. It could well have been tragic but it was not our turn. Â Ropes have their place obviously it depends on experience, terrain, and many other factors. Be wise... Â [ 06-07-2002, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 Dru, There are only certain places on 8000 meter peaks on the traditional routes where there are fixed lines. There is never a continual fixed line from base camp to the summit on any 8000 meter peak, and yet people still decide to go unroped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Dru, There are only certain places on 8000 meter peaks on the traditional routes where there are fixed lines. There is never a continual fixed line from base camp to the summit on any 8000 meter peak, and yet people still decide to go unroped. And what about West Pole Brand then Mr. Veisturs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 Okay sir. Maybe you have got me. Maybe not. What the hell is West Pole Brand??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 look around on www.tamiknight.com for more on WPB.... (hint look at the acronym) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 Â definitely some goodies there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 Oh for the love of God man! I am trying to figure it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyboy Posted June 8, 2002 Share Posted June 8, 2002 My partner bailed on me and I decided to do a solo climb on Hood the weekend before the accident. My impression was that I felt safer relying on my own skills to not fall/arrest if neccesary. I saw many parties roped together and all bottled up on the way down. Some were carying pickets but not a single party was using any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 8, 2002 Share Posted June 8, 2002 you are right dennis. don't let gi joe blows sheep shagging crowd get to you. oh sorry, they have a cell phone so they can call for the next rescue. my advice- stay of the popular routes. just this board shows how many people have no idea what the hell they are talking about. i hope that they stay in front of their computer screan- it's preatty scary thought that they actually might climb from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedMonk Posted June 8, 2002 Share Posted June 8, 2002 whatever man....i sucessfully arrested a full-on crevasse fall not 3 weeks ago...should my partner not have been roped up? should we have not been roped? cause we were not using runnign belays nor were we anchored in any way....hmm....i'm sure glad we were both so "selfish" cause if not my buddy would be dead....so fuck you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedMonk Posted June 8, 2002 Share Posted June 8, 2002 whatever man....i sucessfully arrested a full-on crevasse fall not 3 weeks ago...should my partner not have been roped up? should we have not been roped? cause we were not using runnign belays nor were we anchored in any way....hmm....i'm sure glad we were both so "selfish" cause if not my buddy would be dead....so fuck you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 8, 2002 Share Posted June 8, 2002 Sadly WPB has been replaced by other sponsors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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