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Jake

Beal Ropes?

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How much success have you had with Beal ropes? Never had one before but I'm considering picking up a 10.2 line now. I did a search here and Beal ropes seemed to get a pretty favorable review, but waddya think? Do they handle well, how is the wear?

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I recently used a new 10.2 pink Beal and it was horrible...nice hand, but so slick it felt like an 8mm through my belay device. Slick enough that I couldn't get a smooth lower with a Grigri. hellno3d.gif Stay far, far away from a 10.2 pink Beal.

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No experience with the 10.2... have a pair of 8.1 70s... love them. As far as getting a smooth lower... that is generally a function of the user/device choice; not the rope. I would suggest making a list of what characteristics of a rope are most important to you and let that guide your decision... impact force, gms/meter, sharp edge rating, etc.

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Not true, the rope was way slicker than my Galaxy or Flash using an ATC, figure 8, or Grigri. It's not about a smoother lower, it's about greater friction. I'd be afraid of taking a whip on this rope, it's so slick I question if my belayer could hold me.

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My Flash has been great - pretty ideal in terms of grippyness I would say, but you're right questioning slipperyness. I was being lowered once once and the rope really started to whiz out cause my buddy with his sweaty hands couldn't hang onto a new slippery rope.

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I like them...i have 9.4 stinger that is pretty decent...

 

Not sure what paul is talking about w/ regards to lowering...i haven't had any problems w/ them...

 

They do "black" pretty bad though...

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NOLSe- do you have the Beal Ice Line? I'm considering getting it for a glacier/alpine rope. Also- anyone have any experience with the Beal Cobra (8.6mm)?

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I have a pair of 8.1 ice lines, a 10.3, and have used Cobras in the past. Love them all. Occasionally get a little kinky, but have had no troubles lowering (ATC, gri gri, reverso). For their thickness, or lack thereof, the ice lines have been a really durable set of ropes. Same with the 10.3. I would definitely buy Beals again.

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i felt that the beal rope that i had wore out pretty fast. tho now a days i buy ropes almost soley on price unless i need it for a specific use.

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I've got the ice lines (8.1) 9.7mm and just ordered a 10.5mm top gun. With their new super coating the durability issues are supposed to be fixed. Beal ropes are my choice for a number of reasons. First and most importantly - Low impact forces. I look at these before I look at anything else on a rope. 2nd - Cut resistance - even the 9.7 passes the UIAA test I think. (Note the UIAA sharp edge test is not as drastic as the one Edelweiss puts their Stratos through - Stratos is still the edge king)

Black mark in the middle - easy to spot and doesn't cost me $30 like a bi-color. Hand is great - beals are softer ropes so buy one thickness thicker if you're not used to them - ie - looking at the 9.7 go with the 10.2 flyer and you'll be happy

 

for info of the scientific sort - check out

Beal Impact Forces

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i'm w/ erik on this one...i buy the length of rope i need at the best price i can find...diameter? who cares! Brand, who cares!

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I've used the 8.1 Ice Lines and loved them, but I've also seen their single ropes get trashed in a very short period of time. If you do a lot of sport climbing, or intend to regularly take whippers, I'd stay away from Beal because their durability is lousy.

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I use the 10.2 Beal.. I swear by it and my friends that have been lucky to climb on it loved it so much I got them one for birthdays. it's a light, rope that clips well and feels great.. my wife belay's me on the lead. I've taken a fall and if she could hold me, well then I dont know why anyone else would have a problem. I use a reverso with it. great smooth ride. it does blacken but what roped doesnt?

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Alright- what would you all recommend then for ice climbing- the Ice Line or the Cobra?

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Ice Line for sure. The sheaths are woven with single pic construction, which makes the rope somewhat more water resistant than double pic weave like the Cobras (think microfiber nylon vs cordura). After six seasons of use my ice lines still stay reasonably dry and are not that fuzzy.

 

thumbs_up.gif

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Alright, cool...what diameter cordelette would you use for prussiking on an Ice Line? I'd be using the rope for glacier travel...would 5 be effective? 6 mil seems like it might be too big.

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