freeclimb9 Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 a wee, but crucial, flake hold on a new route has me worried. I'd like to have it remain attached to the cliff. Any suggestions for glue re-enforcement? Type of glue appropriate for limestone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 Is it really that great of a hold? Is it worth all the effort? You might consider just chopping it off and then using your Bosch to drill an enormous bucket in its place. Also, be sure that nobody misses the sequence: get some day-glow Rustoleum and paint a big arrow that identifies the bucket's location. [ 05-30-2002, 08:26 AM: Message edited by: pope ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted May 30, 2002 Author Share Posted May 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: Is it worth all the effort? It never is. It'll just be another obscure lee-than-test-piece sport climb. It's just a local diversion that's safer than messing with Momo girls. And dirtier, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 Get a prybar and bust it off then go for the super Loskot dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: quote:Originally posted by pope: Is it worth all the effort? It never is. It'll just be another obscure lee-than-test-piece sport climb. It's just a local diversion that's safer than messing with Momo girls. And dirtier, too. How poetic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 One of our local sport climbing areas has several routes with construction adhesive holding loose rocks in place. I believe the guy may have used whatever he could buy at Home Depot, and squirted it in cracks with a cauk gun. You might ask somebody who works with marble buildings what would be the best product to use. I agree with the idea that the use of glue is less than aesthetic, but the Seattle climbing area that has that stuff was not developed for its beauty. It is really more of an outdoor gym than what some of us would call a climbing area. So in my opinion, the consideration of whether or not to use glue depends at least in part on where the route is going to be. I'g guessing you aren't putting up a wilderness route in Canyonlands. [ 05-30-2002, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: mattp ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat_Kid Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 Go to home depot and get the 2 part glue made by stimson that is used for gluing bolts in on constuction projects. You can by a small tube for 7 bucks and it is really good, but slippery if you get it on the hold. It is the same type of glue that you use for glue in anchors Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 If you ignore the ethical issues of gluing, chipping etc... The 2-part 2 ton epoxy is awesome for gluing rock. it is low enough viscosity that if you put it in while still warm, it will flow in well behind the flake and work well. A disposable syringe may be useful. I use it to glue chunks of polished granite to frosted glass and it works quite well. There is also a 5-minute version, but you would have to mix that in the middle of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by glen: If you ignore the ethical issues of gluing, chipping etc... The 2-part 2 ton epoxy is awesome for gluing rock. it is low enough viscosity that if you put it in while still warm, it will flow in well behind the flake and work well. A disposable syringe may be useful. I use it to glue chunks of polished granite to frosted glass and it works quite well. There is also a 5-minute version, but you would have to mix that in the middle of the route. Ya are you gluing on lead or rap-gluing? Ethical shmethical.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted May 30, 2002 Author Share Posted May 30, 2002 I've never pondered whether gluing "chunks of polished granite to frosted glass" is unethical, or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 The frosted glass is used in the preparation of thin sections for petrographic analysis of rocks. I use a lot of these in my geology research. I would hope nobody starts gluing chunks of glass to crags. Some of those crimps are painful enough as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 As for chipping, I usually get my chunks of granite with an 8lb sledgehammer and a signed and sealed permit from the NPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 Shit, 8lb sledgehammer, you can get chunks of basalt from Vantage with a toothbrush and/or a strong wind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 If only I needed a piece of Vantage. It kinda sucks to carry an 8lb sledge into the backcoutry, fill your pack with rocks and then hike back out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Keep that kind of talk up and folks will think you're a sport climber. It actually sounds like good training..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 5 miles cross country at 10,000+ feet with 80-90lbs of granite on your back *is* good training. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 well did they chip to get those granite chunks or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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