mmcmurra Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 I found reference to this Index route in the "New Route Log" section of the Rock & Ice web site. The description is tantalizing (I'll include it below), and I'm curious to know a little more about it. Does anyone know what kind of pro it takes and where to get that topo? I apologize if the route is listed in the new "Sky Valley Rock" guide -- I haven't checked it out yet. Thanks, Michael From http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=new_route_category&route_cat_id=41&category=Washington 5.10 crack 500 yds west of Rattle tale wall. "A modern classic(in my opinion) it goes from hand crack to offwidth back to hand crack to chimmney to slab to overhanging jugs. How was this one missed till now? Pro is excellent. Topo available. Hardest move is exiting the chimmeny(don't stem tree)." Mike Schaefer, Erik Snyder & Allen Leber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 Mike- The route isn't in the guide book as Erik, Allen and I just put it up 3 weeks ago. The rack is pretty standard, doubles up to #3 camalot and a small selection of stoppers. To find the route head left from rattletale until you come to another cliff, about 500yds. The route starts on the far right side with a left leaning hand crack. This pitch could use a little more cleaning. It ends at a large tree that is standing in front of the chimney. On top of the chimney head up and left on slab. This brings you to a short steep corner with long reaches (at least for me) to good jugs. This is the only part on the route where pro is kinda difficult. It is there, you just have to find it. There will be a tree on top with a sling for rapping, one 60m will make it to the ground. You can check out some pics of the route at Mike Adamson's site : http://www.alpinelite.com/tobyhenson.htm If you go and do it tell me what you think of it. We thought it was a great route. Mike Schaefer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 Oh yeah, someone was asking me about this the other day and now I can't remember who or which thread so I'll tack onto this one... There's a pic of Mikey leading "Cunning Stunt" with no bolts and trad gear and a photo of the rap down/lead back out section of ice at Ouray that someone was mentioning at... http://www.alpinelite.com/stories_images2.htm Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 mcmurra i drew a topo for the climb, but it is not needed. mike gave as good as a description as needed. you only need one #3 cam and it is optional if you don't fall. and like off balance offwidth moves. have fun probably the proudest route i have done(even more so than baby orca(a cult classic) cause it was with two of my best homey's mazike and my french friend al'ien) [This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-15-2001).] [This message has been edited by erik (edited 03-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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