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catbirdseat

Canary is Scary Again

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Last year there was a small horizontal crack on the face of the roof that is the start of the second pitch. This crack could take a small Alien or TCU to protect the step across. I noticed that as of last weekend the rock was broken away at the bottom of the crack so it will no longer take a cam. Someone must have fallen on it.

 

Modern technology had taken away some of the scariness, but now the route is back the way it was before.

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2 moves to a fat bolt, big deal... rolleyes.gif

 

If were putting a cam there you were just wasting time and creating rope drag anyway...

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Most people find that move scary Lambone. You may not, because you are such a badass, but most people do. That is why Jeff Smoot offers the "beta:" bring a #4 camelot to protect this move (it goes in a large crack up and right, just before you step out onto the face).

 

A #3 camelot goes in just as well as the #4, but it is still scary for most 5.8 leaders. You move out accross a steep face with the potential to crater on the large ledge you started on, and its probably not a leg breaker fall but it is cause for concern for an old gujy like me. You then get a secure stance around the corner, but I believe it is still six or eight feet up to that fat bolt you are tlaking about.

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yup, that's me...badass-hardcore 5.7 climber rolleyes.gif

 

It might be alittle unerving your first time, but once you realize the holds are big then I don't find it any scarier then the other run-out climbs at Castle. Personaly I think the Start of Saber is just as scary, and I have seen someone deck from 20 ft up on it.

 

Not to mention the 1st pitch of Canary where you need to face climb for 20ft above large boulders until you get your first good piece in. Much harder and more dangerous than that traverse move. Who's with me here confused.gif

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On that first pitch, there is no need to do that unprotected face climbing you mention. It takes a few long runners to avoid a rope drag problem, but you can start up a corner to the left with a crack for pro.

 

You're right that there are plenty of other climbs at Castle Rock that will scare leaders who are climbing anywhere near their limit and I agree that Saber, too, is just as scary for its grade.

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I have to agree with Lambone on this one, I really didn't find that two moves hard or scary. I remeber doing the move around the corner and looking up to see if I could see this scary move, not realizing that I had just donw it. IMO the first pitch was harder and scarier.

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Ken, I don't get why people think the first pitch is hard. It is very easy if you know how to stem. Only the exit move is hard. The two moves onto the roof are hard because all you have are a couple of tiny side pulls for your hands and you have to move your feet twice on tiny edges until you can reach the big jug.

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On that first pitch, I don't believe you ever have to make a move over 5.4 without pro above your waist if you want it. It is still awkward - and can be scary - at the finish, though.

Edited by mattp

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Yeah the gear is good on the first pitch except the start and at the finish it is ok. And like CB mentioned there is stemming possible most of the way up. I just find the stemming and jamming not that secure because the rock is all greasy under the roof from years of blood, sweat, and tears.

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Yep - it is not only greasy, but dirty or sandy also. And its all SCARY there because of that nasty overhang above your head. It is kind of odd that being UNDERNEATH that roof is so scary, but it makes that exit move awkward. Damn overhang!

 

Canary is a great climb.

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From Eric and Lucie's bus trip, here's Eric starting up the first pitch with pro, instead of the bouldering 20 feet of face climbing nearby. He may regret not putting a runner on that cam as he gets higher and his lead rope gets stuck in the crack he's holding with his right hand.

 

IMG_2767W.jpg

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shit, if mvs can pose on it, any 5.3 leader can send wink.gif

 

It isn't clear from the photo, but my pants are brown and moist.

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OMFG those zip-leg tights are almost as bag as the shorts and polypro fashion no-no. WTF are they cycling tights? hahaha.gif

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how come lambone has cracked picture now WTF confused.gif

Edited by Dru

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I've just accepted the fact that all my pantwear is uncool. I'm still a devotee of the shorts and polypro, I've got some hot centerfold spreads I'll hafta post. tongue.gif

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Would someone please post the move-by-move beta, a la Chain Reaction, so I can go send? The photos and chalked-up holds still leave room for uncertainty.

 

Does reading this thread blow my onsight?

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Beta: Part One.

 

The Sharp End of the Rope

 

 

Today was going to be the day! I was going to lead the Canary Route on Castle Rock in Washington State, a 5.8 face overlooking the spectacular Tumwater Canyon. This was going to be no problem whatsoever. After all, I had done it on top rope a half dozen times.

 

I started up, placing each foot carefully. After twenty feet, I stopped at a fissure in the wall and tried to fit a wired nut in. Hmmm, doesn't look too good, I thought to myself. I climbed up another 10 feet and tried to place another nut. Still didn't look too good.

 

I climbed a bit higher, stopped, and looked down to the boulders next to my partner. Yee gads, it was a long way to fall! I moved a bit higher. I didn't remember this portion being so difficult. I moved my hand higher and then brought it back down and I started to sweat. My legs then started to shake. I was going to FALL and die, or so I thought.

Then I heard voices on the Saber ledge above me!

 

I yelled with desperation, "Hey! Could you give me a top rope?"

 

"No problem," the voice said from above me.

 

A second later I saw a beautiful red and blue rope with a biner tied to the end, snaking down toward me. I quickly grabbed the biner and clicked in. DA! DA! DA! Superman! I was up the remaining feet in less time than it takes me to climb the stairs in my house.

 

5.8 is a whole lot harder on the sharp end of the rope, especially when the sharp end is unprotected!

 

—Anthony Mendoza, Living the Life with MountainZone.com

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Yeah mattp, that is exactly what i'm talking about.

 

Once I tried your way over to the left and found myslf doing this big unprotected traverse to get back over to the crack higher up on the right. Seemed just as hard and scary, and a fall would bring you pretty close to the deck.

 

Anyway...yeah Canary is a cool climb for sure bigdrink.gif

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