layton Posted May 27, 2002 Share Posted May 27, 2002 Part I: Greybeard N.Face Solo Attempt I’m writing a long description to fill in some info that Colin and Nelson’s guide descriptions have missing., plus I feel like crap and have nothin’ better to do: With 9000’ freezing levels, overcast skies, and no partners to be found, I thought a great idea would be to go solo Greybeard Friday night . I got to the trailhead at midnight and started skiing. That lasted about 5 minutes and I ditched the skis. The snow was soft, but I wasn’t sinking too far. I found the log crossing easily and crossed it. After that there was no boot track or recognizable trail so I did some serious bushwacking up the slope, constantly wondering where the fuck I was, and when my altimeter read 4500’ I did a long traverse until I came upon the basin (which btw is higher than 4400’). If you decide to go, I’d suggest traversing right immediately till you find the intersecting creek and follow that all the way up. I got to the basin and sunk to my neck occasionally in the avy debris. Shitty. Then I got to the base of the route. Yuuuuuuck! The 45 degree slope Nelson described was thin, running, and contained bits and pieces of ice. Luckily it was quick, but a shit load of slogging loomed ahead. The slope turned into a steep walled avy debris chute, similar to the barrel of a loaded gun. The 65deg slope came soon and I hurled myself onto it. I must not hate myself enough because I turned around at about 6500’ or 1/2 way up the steep ice slope/gully thing. It started turning to really shitty ice, and then after a bit the ice ran out and I kept bottoming out on rock. The top looked so damn close too. While I grappled with my self despair and loathing , it started to rain a bit, and next thing I knew all sorts of shit started to come down. Lots of shit hit me and I frantically tried to downclimb. If I had a belay I’m pretty sure it could’ve gone, but a lot must’ve melted away from last week ‘cuz it was SUPER shitty (rock, wet snow, little bubbles of honeycomb grey ice). I don’t know what I would have done if it hadn’t started raining death above me. Oh well, it’ll be there next year. At the base I ass-slid all the way back to the creek. I looked up at the face and didn’t realize that I got so damn far. I expected to turn around at the trailhead. So I humped it back to the car. From the base of the 1st steep step the descent took 30 minutes. When I looked at my watch back at the car it was 3:45. I think car to summit it might have taken 4 hours, but obviously that’s pure speculation. Colin’s descent looked like the way to go. The approach doesn’t deserve Nelson’s grade III rating. More like a II. WAY EASY. If you weren’t postholing and had great conditions, I wouldn’t be surprised if a fast party could do it car to car in 5-6 hours. Shorter approach than Big 4. The climbing didn’t look to bad if it had more snow or was colder. Makes colonial look like K2. As for the 65 degrees? I’ll bet with more snow, the gullies and the face would level off. I’d like to try a straight-up route (not taking the left gully, and doing the direct finish). I couldn’t see much about that 1st straight-up part since it was dark and my heart was full of terror and shame. One more thing, unless you are a fantastic skier, don’t bring skis. The 1st 1,000 feet of approach is through twisting, thick, thick forest. Lots of tree wells, branches, and stumbling to fall over in, and going down that would be horrific . Bring snowshoes, or better yet, nothing and ditch your poles at the base. Part II: Ski to Sea I was awake for 7 hours on Saturday and woke up Sunday feeling nice and sick. Sore throat, congested, groggy . I had the 1st leg, the x-country ski. It was my first time x-country skiing. The dynamite went off and I surrealistically made it to the finish without falling down. I got 170th overall in the x-country out of 400 which, giving the circumstances, I felt was pretty damn good. That night I got really, really drunk and any thoughts of going to Index monday were washed away in a mix of Black Velvet, Advil, Eccinaesha, and a raging cold. My walk to Hagen’s this morning for doughnuts and coffee felt like a death march . Part III (finally): Slideshow Wed. Night Finally, I’m giving a slideshow THIS WEDNESDAY at 7:00pm. It’s in Viking Union 552. There are infoboards at the south and north ends of campus as the where the VU is. Hope to see some of ya’ll there and some new faces. -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 27, 2002 Share Posted May 27, 2002 Bham is within driving distance for a slideshow but Im gonna be in Powell River until Thurs AM. Bummer dood I will catch it next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalturtle Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Mikey is so hard!!! Hard like rock!! At least in the head region. Cheers mike, I'm off to Mecca in 5 weeks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Michael, it sounds to me like you displayed the kind of mountaineer's wisdom that keeps you around for another try. A self-loathing individual might press on, oblivious of reality, but one who respects the mountain and him/herself will have to turn around sometimes, disappointed or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 28, 2002 Author Share Posted May 28, 2002 Vert-Turt, Good luck man! Summer epic road trips will never be the same. Dru, at least you concidered going. Norman, do "mountaineers" and "wisdom" belong in the same sentance? Next time I'll watch the drill sargent intro from Full Metal Jacket before I go climbing. Necro, you suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Mike was break-dancing on the table, wasted college boy. Sadly, all his trolling came to naught and he went home alone. Drunk people are retards, my drunkard wife included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 29, 2002 Author Share Posted May 29, 2002 Yeah, too bad she went home alone as well. Wanna do mount Jimmy Jimmy this weekend, or can't you handle the 5,000 vertical gain 60-80 degree non-stop ice? I checked it out, looks good (it's up real high). Got a massage from Agent Orange today. He hates you all and still thinks something's fishy. I love all of God's creatures, especially fish (tuna). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 whats tonite? ahh thats right it soccer time!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 You got that right! Can hardly wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: [QB] Got a massage from Agent Orange today. QB] You crazy kids... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 30, 2002 Author Share Posted May 30, 2002 Don't forget, it's tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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