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liberty crack, thin red line????


kashmir

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thin red line- did that in oh about 1994 in 14 hours. the route went mostly free @5.11 AO or A1. we fixed a knife blade on a double roof pitch and that was the only pin we used entire route. I mean if you can climb 5.11 there is no need for much aid at all. at if you don't- start training!. liberty crack is much higher quality. for crying out loud could someone replace that fucking bolt ladder? that thing was scary in '93. a competent party can do that route in 8-9 hours. we started at 1 pm and still managed to catch a beer in winthrop in the evening.

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oh yea, i forgot. when you do pitch 4 do the pendulum and a mantle to the belay at the base of the corner. much better then hang at that stupid belay in a middle of the slab- someone should move the bolts.also with a 60m rope you can combine pitches 5 & 6 and 9 & 10. we toped off in the dark and had to sleep on the top- i couldn't find the descent route. mosquitos were a nightmare all night long. i left a big morning tripple coiler near the top- let me know if you find it [Moon][Moon][Moon][chubit][chubit]

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I was up there yesterday (sat. 1st of june) and everything looked to be melting fast, hiking in shorts and no shirt with 70 degree weather. The snow was great for skiing, but only looked at the cracks, did some gaping.. I'd say go for it, parking lot was full of climbers so people are definatly out climbing. I'd suspect that the crack is dry

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Don't know anything about the quantity of fixed gear presently, but about 6 years ago, a partner and I were able to get up the thing only using one lost arrow and a knife blade on the route. Also, I ran out of cams for the M&M ledge and wound up belaying of a couple of 1/2 inch angles. We weren't very experienced, so it couldn't have been that bad (or maybe we were just dumb . . .).

 

I'm pretty sure tlr has gone clean.

Micro nuts, a wide variety of hooks and widgets (loweballs, peckers (put those things away if you spoon to keep warm), and related thin stuff) seemed to do the trick when ever it got difficult.

 

Matt

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