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hells canyon


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i am looking for a partner with alpine rock experience for climbing the multi pitch routes down in hells canyon. one wall has adjacent 120 meter routes, 600 meters in all, mid 10/upper 11 on excellant limestone. climbing with double rope experience is helpful as well as endurance.

this month through april-then again oct on through are the times to go.

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the routes i mentioned are my own. i have put up a 100 there as well. they differ somewhat from the 'cliche' modern top down trad. i like to ground up mine drilling from awesome hooks. they are quite safe yet remain unreapted by the new and old 'locals'. aparently, they lack challenge enough. any way that is the reason for my plea-these routes are great if you like long pitches and enjoy climbing as much vertical as you can in a weekend. i am the living guide book!

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Vert,

If you are who I think you are (from La Grande) you are one of the only climber out there who I respect. The other wankers that have to much time and battery power on ther hands are drilling way too much (i.e. the spring mountain bolt fest). I lived out there for quite a long while and did climbed a lot all over, including Duns Bluff, and interesting stuff up in the Elkhorns that you were a part of. Thanks for being a shining star, maybe some of the new beginers in that part of the state will have someone else to look up to besides steve and the walla walla mad driller.

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One more point and I am done. I don't think that steve's routes and the mad bolters routes suck. Many of them are damn fine sport routes. The problem for me is, especially at spring mt., is that so many routes are put up, many of them extremely close together and there are many bolts near bomber natural pro. I don't want to get into a debate about this, I have already had long discussions with the route developers along time ago. It is their choice, I just disagree. My main point was that if Vert is Mark H. he is a damn fine climber by reputation and any of you out there would be stoked to share a rope with him.

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i like to keep an open mind- i have climbed a lot of routes all over out here. truth be told, granite, greenstone, columnuar? basalt, andesite and limestone covers the types out here. i just want to climb for fun, no debate no bullshit just flat out balls to the walls climbing. the kind that makes you howl! this used to be the norm for me, but bridges burn and i am hoping to find new like minded partners for here and elsewhere. the routes i have put up in hells canyon are far from trad for from sport- it just seems logical to follow the rock, and it hovers in the grades of 10 and above. so educated by the stone- and thanks for the thanks

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Here's a link to more another thread with more info about Hell's Canyon. The photo is from Kevin Pogue's website.

old thread

 

LIME.JPG

 

http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing_areas.html

see #12---Hell's Canyon

 

 

Shapp, you probably haven't made the connection yet, but you provided me enough secondhand info to find a few of the climbs in Hells Canyon 4 or so years ago. We had no idea what we were climbing, nor did we care...it was great to climb in a place where there wasn't ANYONE or anything around but rattlesnakes, quail, and a few deer. I owe you one.

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Thinker, you don't happen to be Ryan P. that went to OSU? If so, dude we have some shweet big granite up by my place. You should come up and we'll do some 10 pitch routes. If this isn't Ryan you are still welcome to come up and do some sweet 10 pitch routes. send me a pm

Shapp

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