bulldog Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Climb: Jefferson-Milk Creek Date of Climb: 3/13/2004 Trip Report: Just got off Jeff. Made the top if anybody is interested let me know. Approach Notes: Only could drive to 2666'. It will all be gone quick though. Only about 2-10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 how was the snow? did you ski? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 uh, why not assume people are interested in the climb if you're bothering to post a tr in the first place? i'm always interested in hearing tr's involving anything other than the "hogsback arete" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonanon Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Were there rolling turds? 'Cause otherwise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 might point out the obvious cross post w/ the line "just got off jeff" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 sure we are interested.... Give it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 give it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 and what's the deal with that photo? was there a cornice or somethin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeShow Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Just got off Jeff. Made the top if anybody is interested let me know. That ain't no kinda TR Post again, and post for real this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldog Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Sorry about that. I drove up on Friday the 12th with Luvshaker. We went up pamilia road. It had a lot of down trees and snow patches that I would assume would be gone by now (the snow patches) We moves most of the trees that we could, although there is a big one about a mile up that we were able to get my gas sucking SUV under after a few scratches and roof rack adjustments. We parked at 2666' and hiked the easy 4 miles to the milk creek ice flow. Stayed at about 4600' because we are not tough enough to go any higher. We woke at 3:00 and himed and hawed about how inadequate our helmet is to cover our tiny brains and that our nipples were to hard to climb such a huge route. After about 30 minutes up the firm drainage we climbed up the wall of the South west ridge. It was about 1200' at 40-45 deg. It was dark so you didn't get to see the impending pain. We made the ridge as the sun was comming up. After almost falling asleep hiking the manontany of this ridge we finally gained the Red Saddle and geared up for the big traverse. It looked scary. Luvshaker and I held eachother tight as we gazed accross the west face traverse. It was very solid and steep although I cried several times as I got hit in the head and shoulders with falling ice. It was about 8:00 as we crossed the face looking for a way to the top. We found what lookied to be a few ways to the top including this sweet ice shoot (see Picture) "icedro-tube" only to hit a thin headwall that given a few more weeks should be some great mixed climbing. I would say it is about 3/4 the way across facing west-north-west. I wanted to climb it but luvshaker didn't want to catch a fall with 24 points and two tools flailing around his face. So we backed down and headed around to the North. We were able to traverse up and back to the South and climb up through a rock and ice couloir just below the summit. The summit block was covered in junky ice not strong enough to hold your little sister. Luvshaker and I started haking away at the ice trying to make steps and an anchor to belay from. After about 15 minutes we went for it. Luvshaker activated his go-go-gadget- lightweight and gently stepped up as I waited to jump over the ridge if he fell. Of course we were laughing so hard because it was so fun thinking back at the ridge climb that was not fun, this made it well worth it. We made it to the top, carefully down climbed, came back accross the west face which had less ice and rock fall with the sun on it than earlier in the morning. We pretty much slid all the way back to camp, ate some rice and chicken and packed out to the environment-thrashing-go-anywhere- SUV. 14 hour day. Good thing I wore my jock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 nice, a fully, zesty tr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldog Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Shred, You bet. Red saddle is 10,000'. We were talking the whole time about the ski lines. You could ski 10 just from there. Amazing tight stuff and lots of feature. You can ski to about 4000' in the milk creek. Not a bad day!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 shred can i come? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I found out that on this trip (after noticing an absence of gloves on most of the climb) that the Bulldog dips his hands and feet regularly in ice water and holds them there until he can't feel anything.... "as training". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I found out that on this trip (after noticing an absence of gloves on most of the climb) that the Bulldog dips his hands and feet regularly in ice water and holds them there until he can't feel anything.... "as training". mmmmmm... frost bite... aaaaahhhhhh.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldog Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Me training in ice water is nothing compared to 90 minutes on a stair master, 65 pound pack while curling 25lbs dumbels, going home and heeving, laughing, and doing it again the next day. . .psycho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeShow Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Smashing fingers with a hammer can introduce one to pain and perhaps tolerance... but pounding nails is what gets the job done. Nice work gentlemen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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