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Sweet trad video


Distel32

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It's a PROJECT for chrissakes! Who cares how it's classified. The guy placed all that gear on lead. He probably fell off at least once for every placement. The guy has probably been working that pitch forever. For him it is a huge puzzle, working out the moves one by one. It shows a shitload of dedication and patience. Few have that kind of skill and even fewer have the patience.

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It's a PROJECT for chrissakes! Who cares how it's classified. The guy placed all that gear on lead. He probably fell off at least once for every placement. The guy has probably been working that pitch forever. For him it is a huge puzzle, working out the moves one by one. It shows a shitload of dedication and patience. Few have that kind of skill and even fewer have the patience.

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

very succinctly put...

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Maybe could could place gear if he did a finger or hand jam one the route instead of crimping the hell out of all those little edges.

 

Oh, and Jonah, who are you to say none of us could do that climb placing our own gear. Maybe we are all badasses.

 

i agree there where plenty of good spots to jam and place gear, and i think i could do that bad boy...someday

he'd also get better jams without a 1/4 inch of tape on his hands hellno3d.gif

but it is a project, and he'll probly send it for real some time thumbs_up.gif

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Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?

 

No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde. rolleyes.gif

 

Ummm, Scott? wazzup.gif Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?

 

Sport climbers:

A. Clip Bolts

B. Climb Faces and Aretes

 

Trad Climbers:

A. Climb cracks

B. Clip Natural protection.

 

End of basic climbing lesson. wave.gifboxing_smiley.gif

 

Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? wave.gifwazzup.gif

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Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?

 

No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde. rolleyes.gif

 

Ummm, Scott? wazzup.gif Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?

 

Sport climbers:

A. Clip Bolts

B. Climb Faces and Aretes

 

Trad Climbers:

A. Climb cracks

B. Clip Natural protection.

 

End of basic climbing lesson. wave.gifboxing_smiley.gif

 

Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? wave.gifwazzup.gif

According to Pope and Dwayner, it's trad if it doesn't hurt the rock. This guy is falling onto nuts and cams, it doesn't hurt the rock, it's trad. Comprende, Cheif? hahaha.gif

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Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?

 

No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde. rolleyes.gif

 

Ummm, Scott? wazzup.gif Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?

 

Sport climbers:

A. Clip Bolts

B. Climb Faces and Aretes

 

Trad Climbers:

A. Climb cracks

B. Clip Natural protection.

 

End of basic climbing lesson. wave.gifboxing_smiley.gif

 

Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? wave.gifwazzup.gif

According to Pope and Dwayner, it's trad if it doesn't hurt the rock. This guy is falling onto nuts and cams, it doesn't hurt the rock, it's trad. Comprende, Cheif? hahaha.gif

 

I am not pope or dwayner ya festering hemmerhoid... trad is when you stick the metal in the crack, attach the rope and keep climbing. it is easier to pink-point trad than redpoint sport... fact.

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That video is cool! rockband.gif

 

That place where he falls about 20 times looks pretty hard hahaha.gif.

 

That part at the end where he throws his leg in, and he hasn't clipped yet. You can really tell he's maxed out 'cause he's not breathing (holding his breath, straining) until he throws the leg in, then he just starts panting, but he still can't work up the strength to clip.

 

Cool.

 

I wonder what kinda placement he's doing all that bouncing or hopping or whatever you call it to get back up to the rock? Looks like it must be a pretty good one eh?

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Hey, maybe that thing really goes at .11b tongue.gif

 

The frogs aren't really known for their crack climbing mastery ya know. hahaha.gif

 

um its in quebec where they do know how to climb cracks

 

and ya it is really supposedly a 5.14 crack climb but no one has successfully pinkpointed yet i think last i heard the rating was 13c A0

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5.12 in the gym is not really 5.12

 

Except when it is, eh? boxing_smiley.gif

 

And, for the record, people are advised not to argue with Jonah, or he'll take your ass to court. As head legal counsel for AmazingCo, Inc., Jonah has consistently demonstrated a pit bull tenacity, which, coupled with his can't-lose attitude and penchant for packing heat in his briefcase, has resulted in an undefeated record in various courts from city to Supreme.

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Not to be a dick, but don't you guys think it's a little odd to be ragging on this guy's style of ascent? The way you say "well, it's not REALLY trad" makes you sound as if you're suggesting that if YOU were to do it, you would place all the gear. Newsflash: you're not gonna do it in any style, preplaced gear or otherwise! Ever!! So why try to bring down the accomplishment of someone who did?

 

No ya putz. the video started out TRAD and it really wasn't trad. I don't care two shits, but it aint trad. It is sport climbing. What is the difference? Dis moi. Merde. rolleyes.gif

 

Ummm, Scott? wazzup.gif Crack climbing is Trad climbing, remember?

 

Sport climbers:

A. Clip Bolts

B. Climb Faces and Aretes

 

Trad Climbers:

A. Climb cracks

B. Clip Natural protection.

 

End of basic climbing lesson. wave.gifboxing_smiley.gif

 

Nice lesson grandpa. But tell me, what is the difference between climbing sport and climbing 'trad' when all the gear is bomber and pre-placed? huh? would you call the bolted crack climbs in skaha trad? of course not. what is the difference then? wave.gifwazzup.gif

 

Even pre-placed gear is not fixed, bolts are. Voila! Makes it Trad, not sport. (If you weren't already convinced. rolleyes.gif)

 

wave.gif

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boxing_smiley.gif

 

Some very important facts:

 

It was set up as a sport climb.

The video was called "Trad".

Trad is the art of placing your own gear on lead.

The climber did not do that.

Climbing a bolted crack is NOT TRAD.

The guy is a bad ass climber.

The musical artist was: Mc Solar

 

boxing_smiley.gif

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Hey, maybe that thing really goes at .11b tongue.gif

 

The frogs aren't really known for their crack climbing mastery ya know. hahaha.gif

 

um its in quebec where they do know how to climb cracks

 

and ya it is really supposedly a 5.14 crack climb but no one has successfully pinkpointed yet i think last i heard the rating was 13c A0

 

Um yeah, but he's french Canadian then... which is almost worse... hi i'm canadian but i only speak french and have a big stick up my ass. tongue.gif

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hi there.

 

I made the video so let me explain the context. It was made for the Festiglace. It was the end of the 15 minute long movie. The movie started by showing some sport climbing, dry tooling, the Ice Climbing World Cup and then that vid. The point of the vid what to show some variety of climbing in Quebec.

I wrote trad because it's a gear climb. Yes it is preplaced gear. Does that make it a sport climb? Maybe, personnaly, I don't care much. You can keep arguing. I doubt it will be send placing gear for the next 20 year.

 

For the music, it is by Shurikane. One of the member of the band I Am. The song is called Samurai.

 

P.S. As you might notice, the vid is not even officially on the website anyway. I wanted to change that version a little (including removing the trad thing). I didn't expect it would end up on various forums.

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