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Holy S#$%!! Check this OBVIOUS line


willstrickland

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Yeah, that line was totally visible in Sean's article in Alpinist a while back.

 

It's been tried several times I've been told, but everyone has just encountered snowy crap. If conditions materialized it looks like it'd be amazing.

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I did some research into this route a year or two ago and came across accounts of several attempts on the route, all reporting terrible snow and ice conditions. There is a huge serac that hangs over the gully and strafes the route. In spite of this, two guys from Fairbanks (maybe Anchorage, cant remember) climbed it in 2002 according to the beta in the Talkeetna Ranger station.

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  • 2 months later...

Correction with regard to my previous post. I looked back over the Dickey info in the Ranger station again this spring and contrary to my previous post, I could not find any indication that this route has been climbed to the summit. Sorry for the misinformation and inaccurate post.

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I wonder if that is Snow Patrol. I can't tell from the picture and topo I have, whether that is the line that Sam Chinnery & Andy Sharpe did April 7th. Is this the South East corner of Dickey?

Which Alpinist was Sean's article in? I might be able to tell from another photo.

Jedi

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  • 3 years later...

Nothing new but I remember reading an account of an attempt.

It was scetchy at the bottom as others have poited out but this team made it up into the ice. Their problem was the incessant flow of spenthrift and other "particles" that have nowhere to go but down the line. They backed off feeling lucky to be alive after one big piece wooshed by both of them.

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  • 4 weeks later...

We tried it a few years ago. There was ice(?) at the bottom but it ran out after 7 or 8 pitches. After that it was vertical snow and blank rock. When we bailed we had to chop bollards in the vertical crap because V threads wouldn't hold and there was almost no rock pro. In that photo the line looks like it's out in the open but it's really in a chimney. Alot deeper in a chimney then it looks. The real ice prize is on Dickeys south side!

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