willstrickland Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Right of the existing route 5000ft of ice anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Beautiful. Is that the backside of Chair Peak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Beautiful. Is that the backside of Chair Peak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Blood from Stone on Dickey? If so, that line is the most obvious and is unclimbed. But its also wicked steep and sustained and would require perfect conditions to send. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 sean easton said the line to the right begins as powder snow over blank granite. feel like a bolt ladder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Yeah, that line was totally visible in Sean's article in Alpinist a while back. It's been tried several times I've been told, but everyone has just encountered snowy crap. If conditions materialized it looks like it'd be amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joepuryear Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Not to mention it is threatened by a Wal Mart sized serac... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 I did some research into this route a year or two ago and came across accounts of several attempts on the route, all reporting terrible snow and ice conditions. There is a huge serac that hangs over the gully and strafes the route. In spite of this, two guys from Fairbanks (maybe Anchorage, cant remember) climbed it in 2002 according to the beta in the Talkeetna Ranger station. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 5, 2004 Author Share Posted March 5, 2004 Another look at it in late summer conditions with no snow/ice in the cleft/chimney/gully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 my friends tried that while I watched from the relative comfort of another climb. The reported fluffy puff and did a couple heinous pitches before bailing. Perfect conditions a must. Coley, you said it's been climbed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 yeah, high mountain sports, alpinist and aaj all claim the line to the right is still unclimbed so if it has been done that info should get published ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhump Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 So where is the threatening serac? Seems to be nothing hanging above but granite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 I think it was done this past sept. That's what I heard, but you know how that goes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Correction with regard to my previous post. I looked back over the Dickey info in the Ranger station again this spring and contrary to my previous post, I could not find any indication that this route has been climbed to the summit. Sorry for the misinformation and inaccurate post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedi Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 I wonder if that is Snow Patrol. I can't tell from the picture and topo I have, whether that is the line that Sam Chinnery & Andy Sharpe did April 7th. Is this the South East corner of Dickey? Which Alpinist was Sean's article in? I might be able to tell from another photo. Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedi Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Ahhh.......looked Blood from a Stone up in the 03 AAJ. I was way off base. Snow Patrol is an ice & snow line to the left (out of the pictures shown above). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Anything new on this line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Nothing new but I remember reading an account of an attempt. It was scetchy at the bottom as others have poited out but this team made it up into the ice. Their problem was the incessant flow of spenthrift and other "particles" that have nowhere to go but down the line. They backed off feeling lucky to be alive after one big piece wooshed by both of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 We tried it a few years ago. There was ice(?) at the bottom but it ran out after 7 or 8 pitches. After that it was vertical snow and blank rock. When we bailed we had to chop bollards in the vertical crap because V threads wouldn't hold and there was almost no rock pro. In that photo the line looks like it's out in the open but it's really in a chimney. Alot deeper in a chimney then it looks. The real ice prize is on Dickeys south side! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 I heard two climbers from Colorado quietly sent it last year and rated it 5.4 AI4 M5. Look for a report in the new AAJ. Right Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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