sacco Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 I tried to post this yesterday, but I don't think it worked. If it did, and this is a repeat post, sorry about that. I am planning a climbing trip to the Cordillera Real this summer, and am interested in using a local guide service. I've looked into guide services in the states (i.e. AAI, Colorado Mtn School, etc.) but 1) they're expensive, and 2)they offer zero flexibility. Does anyone have experience with a service called "Bolivian Journeys"? They sound legit, but I wanted to make sure. Any and all advice about climbing and guide services in the area is appreciated. Any good experience with other guide services? Thanks everyone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 I would be careful with any local guides that you do not have recomendations from North Americans. A "guide" in South America is USUALLY very different from a guide in the states or Canada. Have you talked to Mountain Mandess? www.mountainmadness.com Or call Mark Gunlogson at 1-800-328-5925. I know that they do custom trips. Further, they may be able to receommend a local guide if they cannot do a custom trip to fit your needs. Don't get me wrong, there are good guides down there, but there are a LOT of very bad guides too. And some real crooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 guerrilla marketing hard at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn_one Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 the above mentioned mark is guiding some trips w/ mountain madness this june-july,(condoriri area & sajama) might have some spots open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_Ramsey Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 You might try talking to Craig Van-Hoy, at: http://www.gotrek.com He leads trips to Bolivia every year. Excellent guide, very reasonable rates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 I can't speak to Bolivia, but when I was in Ecuador I met a number of local guides and they all seemed legit. One guy made his client dinner then while the client ate he kicked steps all the way up the route on Illiniza Sur. Of course WE didn't use those steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 All I can say about local Bolivian Guide services is Be Careful. I've watched Bolivian guides do some extremely sketchy things. I watched a Bolivian guide lower five English school boys off of a single ice axe and we're not talking about an axe pounded into the snow, we're talking about lowering off the pick! Last year numerous fatalities took place in Bolivia that could have been attributed directly to guide negligence. The most important thing to realize about Bolivian guides is that most of them are not climbers. Most of them start out as camp cooks and see how much money guides are making. As a result they do their best to learn how to guide. It is unusual to meet a Bolivian guide who climbs for his own enjoyment... This should be an indicator. You're going to get what you pay for. Ecuador is a little different than Bolivia. In Ecuador there is a certification standard for guides. Bolivia doesn't have anything like this. I would strongly suggest employing an American, Canadian, or European guide or guide service. This is the only way that you will know that you're going to get a solid guide who has been trained in both guiding and climbing skills. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennessee Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 Jason gave some really good advice. American Alpine Institute has been guiding in Bolivia for like 26 years and offers a pretty flexible trip: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail.asp?program=11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 i met alain mesili when i was in bolivia a couple of years ago ans spent some tim ewith him in the mountains. although i was not guided by him i can vouch for him. Unfortunatley he does not speak much english, but does speak french and spanish. he's a greta guy and probably bolivia's supreme alpinist. here are a few links and his email address. tell him that the candian guy with the cool bivvy shelter sent you. http://www.andes-mesili.com/text_ingles.htm Alain Mesili Guia de Alta Montaña - Bolivia Teléfono: 7158 2376 - 7062 3040 - La Paz - Bolivia e-mail & msn: amesili@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 I have been to Bolivia 3 times and have learned quite a bit about the guiding companies in La Paz. I was a newbie my first time down there and got guided up Huayna Potosi by the agency run out of the Continental Hotel. The company is run by a retired doctor and his wife who speak good English. They own the refugio at the base of Huayna Potosi and really only specialize in trips to that mountain. On my last few trips I didn't get very good beta about other areas and the transportation prices they offered for jeep service were higher than others. I'd say if you want to be guided up HP, then go with them but otherwise go somewhere else. My favorite agency is Adolfo Andino, near the top of the hill on Sagarnaga (you will undoubtably find your way onto this road at some point). It's run by Adolfo who is a super and very honest guy. He's open to negotiations on transport options and prices (he even offered to rent me his car). When we came asking about jeep transport to Sajama, he told us it was way too expensive and gave us directions on how to get there by public transport for a few dollars apiece. He has a fair amount of gear for rent as well. If you know where you want to go and what you want to do, he can make it happen for less than everyone else. His guides are pretty cool and gave us some good beta that led us to climb an awesome mixed route on the South Face of Ala Izquierda. He also speaks excellent English as a bonus. Across the street from Adolfo's is Bolivian Journeys. It is owned by Adolfo's brother (I think his name is Marco) who is much more serious and less flexible with independent climbers (e.g. with us), but seems to run a pretty tight guiding service. He has a 3-ring binder full of itineraries for various mountains with prices and schedules. If you're not interested in going along on one of his all-inclusive trips then I would not expect great service. He does however rent climbing shoes you can take to La Florida in the south end of town for some sport climbing if you have some time to kill, although you have to get the guide book from Adolfo. I think these are the 3 best climbing oriented set-ups in town. I checked out many others in the area and found them either way too expensive or more focused on tours of the sight-seeing variety. My advice is not to arrange anything until you get there. Stay at one of the hotels around Sagarnaga and check out the agencies and try to get condition reports from them and other climbers. You can find all the provisions you'll need in the streets higher up. As a bonus, you'll already be acclimatizing as this area of La Paz is at around 10,000 feet. Be sure and visit the Deadstroke for some beer and pool. Have a great trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 in general i don't trust the agencies. the dr at the continental hotel is the scourge of all the other agencies. adolfo screwed me over re prices and timing of a jeep. beware most agencies' 'guides' are usually only experienced porters. there are 8 guides in bolivia who have been trained by the chamonix guides association. if you are not experienced i would suggest that you try to go with one of these. they cost more but they are trained. i was very impressed with alain mesili. his client, whom i spent some time with, seemed really pleased. best bar in la paz-ocha de agua-thurs and fri nights! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 the dr at the continental hotel is the scourge of all the other agencies. What happened Jeff, I thought you were all set up to work as a guide for him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 i heard that he really pissed off a lot of the locals. his recommendation to use kerosene was also very off base. i ended up switching to regular car gas and it was much better. i also did not like his guides-just porters really, but that's the same with most of the others. just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sacco Posted March 26, 2004 Author Share Posted March 26, 2004 Thanks everyone for the info. I'll be sure to post a trip report... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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