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Quality 5.8 Crack Climbs at Frenchman Coulee


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There just aren't a lot of them at Vantage. Can anyone give me the names of some crack climbs at 5.8 that you have done that you thought were good enough you'd be willing to do them again, besides Crossing the Threshold and Party In Your Pants? In particular, I'm looking for single cracks, as opposed to double cracks such as the two mentioned.

Edited by catbirdseat
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Middle East Wall has a left facing offwidth to hand crack called 272. It is rated 2 stars, and is a pretty fun lead. You can do the wide start with a #4 friend. It is 2 climbs to the right of that awesome handcrack Sex Party.

 

Disastor Factor is an 5.8 chimney climb at Middle East Wall. Getting past the chockstone is the crux. It's between Sex Party and Jihad.

 

Under Duress near PIYP is a 5.8 offwidth. Haven't climbed it, I belive it is only 1 star in the book. Looks a bit dirty, but okay.

 

That's all I can think of.

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I second recommendations for Disaster Factor and 272. I just toproped Disaster Factor, and it seemed like it'd be tough to protect the start (giant cam?). 272 is really nice, though short, and you can toprope 2 really nice 5.9's (or are they 10a) from the same anchors. The furthest right one is a pretty straightforward lead while the middle one would be hard to protect at the start, but is really nice above.

 

Mideast Wall is a good place to go when it's warmer.

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Crossing the Threshold (5.8) is good for the grade (and for the Coulee). Steel Grill is an awesome route, but I’d say that Tangled Up in Blue is a better crack climb. In my book it has some great jamming (big hands). It would get my vote for best 5.9 crack on the Sunshine all. All three of these climbs take wide gear (though you can get around it on Steel Grill). Last time I did Tangled I believe I used three 3s, two 4s a 3.5 (along with some other stuff) and could have used more. You have to make an achor at top, but I believe I was able to do it with a #2 and some small stuff. Numbers refer to BD cams.

 

Should be noted that the Middle East Wall a great place to climb. The rock is really solid when compared to the rest of the Coulee.

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In my book it has some great jamming (big hands). Last time I did Tangled I believe I used three 3s, two 4s a 3.5 (along with some other stuff) and could have used more. Numbers refer to BD cams.

 

If I had hands that big, my girlfriend would love me. cantfocus.gif

 

In all seriousness, that sounds more like the pro for Steel Grille than TUIB, which is mostly 2 to 2.5" stuff.

 

I remember Catbirdseat said he lead it recently. What did you use CBS?

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Tangled up in blue can't be 10c, else I never would have been able to lead it. It doesn't take huge gear at all. I remember cams in the ca. 2 inch range. It takes gear really well. It's not a bad choice for a first 5.9 lead. It might seem a lot harder if you have short legs, because stemming makes it so much easier. I like to think of TUIB as Party In Your Pants without the crack on the right. Your left foot bears your weight on a series of horizontal joints, and your right foot is stemmed out the whole time on face of the right side. My right butt cheek was sore the day after I led it.

 

Yesterday I led another 5.9, but this time a single crack route called Whale of the Wanapum (two stars) at Tomato Wall. It seemed pretty easy for a 5.9, but perhaps that is because it is a bit shorter than TUIB. It is definitely a quality route. I'd recommend it. Takes a standard rack, ie. a set of cams and some nuts or aliens for the lower part.

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