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minx

bowline vs fig 8

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i remember there was a thread discussing the virtues of tying in w/a bowline vs. a figure 8. can anyone a) give me a brief summary of the pros and cons or b) find the link to that thread. i can't find it

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I prefer tying in with a figure 8 and backup knot, into a locking biner. However, a bowline would be a little easier to untie if it had been heavily loaded like from a fall.

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No choice...double bowline w/ a yo-finish...

 

plenty strong, fast to tie, fast to untie, and secure...trim also, instead of a big wad of rope at your harness...

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bcollins showed me a nice way to finish up an eight. He called it the Yosemite Follow Through. You take the tail that ordinarily you would use to tie a overhand backup and instead take it around the standing part and back through the bottom of the knot. It looks very clean. I could show you more easily than I can tell you.

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I prefer tying in with a figure 8 and backup knot, into a locking biner.

 

Are saying that you tie into a locking biner which is then clipped to the harness? confused.gif Do you do this when rock climbing, whether alpine trad, crag, or sport? Or is this just what you do when mountaineering?

 

wave.gif

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Are saying that you tie into a locking biner which is then clipped to the harness? confused.gif ?

 

 

Good point. About all I climb any more is mountaineering routes, like on rainier etc. On these routes, glacier routes, I always use a locking biner. But it is not a good idea for rock routes, where I would tie right into my harness.

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bcollins showed me a nice way to finish up an eight. He called it the Yosemite Follow Through. You take the tail that ordinarily you would use to tie a overhand backup and instead take it around the standing part and back through the bottom of the knot. It looks very clean. I could show you more easily than I can tell you.

 

I have been using this way of tying in for years now. It is easy and not bulky at all.

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Are you ready for 8 pages of "My knot is better than your knot", "Why knot", "Why use any knot", "Knot through your harness", "Knot on a Locking Biner", ad naseaum? tongue.giftongue.giftongue.gif

 

Knot me moon.gif

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i remember there was a thread discussing the virtues of tying in w/a bowline vs. a figure 8. can anyone a) give me a brief summary of the pros and cons or b) find the link to that thread. i can't find it
from what I recall the bow line is great as long as you are SURE you are tying it corectly... if you reverse it you are fucked.

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bowline is "easier to untie" and also "more likely to accidentally untie"

 

i just tie in with a noose on my neck, or a slipknot around my balls, like John Redhead did in Britain cantfocus.gif

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bowline with a yos finnish.... its not huuuge like the fig8, easy to untie after loaded, easy to tie, and its pretty obvious if you do it wrong. If its comming untied easily why not finnish with a clove hitch at the end, that would keep it from untying (if your worried about that, I've never had it untie before).

My 2cents snaf.gif

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Here's a link to a recent discussion of the issue.

bowline thread

In that thread, I mentioned that an advantage of the eight is that it can absorb some energy when it tightens up. Someone once told me this and it seemed reasonable. The energy absorbed would reduce the impact force on your protection. Whether the amount of energy is significant I can't say. I tried doing a web search and couldn't find any data on it.

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honestly, it just really doesn't matter which knot you use...knot failure is extremely rare and is (i'm throwing a stat out there, but i don't really know) almost always due to a crappily tied knot...

 

Use what you feel comfortable w/ and tie it right and move on...sheesh...

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honestly, it just really doesn't matter which knot you use...knot failure is extremely rare and is (i'm throwing a stat out there, but i don't really know) almost always due to a crappily tied knot...

 

Use what you feel comfortable w/ and tie it right and move on...sheesh...

Just don't be like Lynn Hill..... hellno3d.gif

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Just tie in and climb for God's sake! Oh yeah, no matter what knot you use, have your partner check it out before you go.

 

It is true that a weighted bowline will untie easier than a weighted figger ate.

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Someone once told me this and it seemed reasonable. The energy absorbed would reduce the impact force on your protection.
be sure to spit a bunch as you fall too to save some weight

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