BillA Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Alright, has anyone climbed crown point or got any beta on any of the routes up there. It looks pretty manky, but I like mank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 rock: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/211645/page/4/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 ice: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/295049/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1/vc/1 Do a search on Alpenjager for the rock, Gorge Ice or Crown Jewel for the ice. Let us know how it goes. Might be a bit damp right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 (edited) You bet;it's a fun climb well worth doing.West Chimney:First pitch is the only really manky one,poorly protected but easy(5.2)choss/grass.You can sling some pretty solid bushes and should be able to get a couple of good pins in.There's a bolt at the first belay.Second pitch is a more easily protected and more solid crack going into an off-width and then a chimney,maybe 5.5-5.6.There's a good belay at the top of this pitch.The next pitch is a huge,very solid,and very amazing chimney that climbs right thru the very middle of the formation,fairly low angle,the bottom of this huge chimney is full of loose dirt,rocks and dead leaves.But the walls on either side are clean bulletproof basalt;classic stemming all the way.At the end you come out on the backside of Crown Point.Final pitch to the top of the Alpenjaeger is mossy,chossy,poorly protected but not difficult scramble.See the route description in "A Climbing Guide to Oregon" by Nicholas A. Dodge.It's out of print,but the Mazamas library will have it,and sometimes you can find old copies at Powell's. Edited February 20, 2004 by Mtguide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Read this post. Drive by Choss Fest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 With all due respect Zach, your description of Alpenjager is incorrect. We encountered choss the entire route and no where on that pile did we encounter any bulletproof basalt. Getting to the top of the Alpenjager itself is like a trip to the proctologist and only for those with extremely tight sphincters. Prepare to do the walrus on loose rock and piles of mossy dirt for 30 feet of more. Its an adventure though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 I've heard what RBW says several times. It has convinced me to stay away. Would you go back Rob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Yes--but only because I like to have the shit scared out of me. The climbing is not technically hard but the objective danger is pretty high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonanon Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Don't forget your dust mask... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted February 21, 2004 Author Share Posted February 21, 2004 (edited) Thanks for the info fellas. We climbed crown jewel during the brunt of the ice storm in january. Very awesome, and got our first look at crown point up close. Definitly on the to do list. Edited February 21, 2004 by BillA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 (edited) The only section I described as bulletproof is the 3rd pitch,the huge chimney;and it really is perfectly sound basalt,nothing loose there that i can recall.I just did this about a year ago in the fall.I totally agree,the rest is a chossdancer's waking fright.Also Alpenjaeger refers just to the 50 ft. pinnacle on the right side of the main big chimney.This is the last pitch,and it is indeed,as I said,mossy,chossy and poorly protected.Sphincter-squinchin',all right.Hell,let's do it again sometime,we can compare our memories to reality. Edited February 22, 2004 by Mtguide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 You can also pick up copies of a Climber's Guide to Oregon at the Multnomah County Public Library. They've got several, and much better hours than the Mazamas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Gonthier Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 I did the Alpen Jager about 4 years ago and have talked to several parties who have done it since then. It seems like every one does some thing different on the chimney pitch. If you read Dodge's book it sounds like you should climb pretty close to the bottom of the chimney to the saddle at the top. Then climb the last 40 or 50 feet to the top of the pinnacle. When we did it, my partner climbed more or less verticly up the chimney from the crappy bolt in the bottom to where the chimney opens up. At that point there is a belay stance with 3 pitons. Then we climbed that last 40 or 50 feet to the summit. The summit is just a small field of grass, no exposed rock to anchor to. At the south end of it there is a bush that you can rap off of to get down to the saddle. It seemed like this way had good rock all the way up the chimney but almost no pro. Knife blades and RPs are the most likely pieces of pro. A friend of mine from way back says that they climbed to the right of the chimney and belayed at a tree. When I was there this looked pretty scetchy but he described the bush at the top exactly like we found it so I know he was there. It was a cool experience and I would repeat it but wouldn't recommend it to someone who was looking for a moderate climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted March 23, 2004 Author Share Posted March 23, 2004 Hey, has anyone climbed any of the other routes on crown point? We did the shitty approach to check out other possible routes and found some ancient pins at the base of the obvious crack system to the left of the big roof in the center of the face, it's visible from the road. This was after climbing a really grassy pitch. The portland guide book I've seen doesn't have much in the way of descriptions of the existing routes. Does anyone know? And oh yeah, there are quite a few dvd porns someone apparently threw off the top if anyone is interested in "booty". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 Have you looked at Dodge's book? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 how many dvds are left? are they soiled? usually I have to make do with the ragged magazines out at rocky butte. such high rollers out in the gorge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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