Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Jarred_Jackman

Calling all Oregon Climbers

Recommended Posts

I'm going to be moving to the Pendleton area this August to teach at a little school in Echo OR. I'll only be working 4 days a week and want to climb as much as I can. Are there any good climbs in the Blue Mountains, cragging, alpine stuff around Anthony Lakes, multi-pitch? Also, who out there in OR would be willing to take on a new partner, I'll be looking for someone come August.

 

take care

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

90% of Oregonians think Pendleton is a nice wool blanket and eastern oregon ends at Gov't Camp. Right T.G.? [laf]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Eagle Cap Wilderness in NE Oregon is worth the visit. It's very attractive landscape and geologically interesting as well. Highest summit is the Matterhorn at 9,845 ft. Many other peaks are over 9,000 ft. Lots of pretty lakes and meadows too. Can be crowded on weekends though--especially in the Moccasin and Mirror Lakes areas. It's less crowded to the east around Aneroid Lake and Aneroid Mountain. I'm pretty sure there are fifth-class technical climbs in the area too--such as Twin Peaks (9,673'). There is a Falcon Guide book out there that elaborates on this.

 

Strawberry Mountain SE of John Day would be a fun weekend trip.

 

Then there is Steens Mountain SE of Burns for anyone who is interested in the differnt types of orographical landscapes possible in this world. Diamond Craters is also interesting for two-hours of one's time while down there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by imorris:

90% of Oregonians think Pendleton is a nice wool blanket and eastern oregon ends at Gov't Camp. Right T.G.?
[laf]

You got that right, Imorris...and I don't mind.

 

As far as what is out here...

 

56 peaks above 9000' (by my count) including 13 of Oregons highest 20 peaks. ( Jeff Smoot is just wrong when he claims that Mclaughlin is OR's 6th highest...I believe it to be a tie for 22nd. Then again he probably thinks there is nothing east of the Cascades)

 

Gobs of rock including grade 4 granite (800' wall) and grade 5 limestone (1700' wall)

 

Killer backcountry skiing

 

Water ice Dec. through April

 

And my personal favorite... more alpine faces, couliors & ridges than even I know what to do with.

 

BTW: both South (9648') & North (9673') Twin Peaks are class 4 (not class 5). North is the loosest pile of crap I have ever climbed sans rope. South used to be higher but in 1929 it fell over. [big Grin]

 

[ 05-07-2002, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I lived in Pendlton For a year, do you mind if I ask why you are moving there, because pesonaly I didn't like it much, kind of a pit where tweekers and alcohalics get sucked into, my persanal preference... plus the only good weed to smoke there was the weed I brought there from Eugene every other weekend... The blues are pretty to hike through, some canyons, with some high cliff walls, but not worth climbing, shitty and brittal rock... But the guys Are right the wallowa mountains in the eagle cap wilderness are the best part of the whole area, If your not set of pendlton yet, check out moving to La Grande....

 

Terminal Gravity... I envy your area and would like to some day be permenatly homesteded in your area... by the way Enterprize is pretty small, you know a cat named Greg Gorden, don't think I spelled their last name right, his dad has the same name, and last time I herd he was doing the cement work, on the side walks outside of La Grande (his dad), I think he live in Arizona now though... just Kerious...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Country Jake; I don't think I know Greg...but if he drinks beer he has probably been in my pub.

 

Jarred; I have a friend in Pendelton that climbs...E-mail me when you get over here & i'll hook you up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Terminal,

 

Is that 1,700-foot grade-5 wall the huge west face of The Matterhorn? When I climbed the Matterhorn (from Ice Lake side), I was amazed at the make-up of the summit rock (very brittle limestone with loads of fossils in it). I brought home a little golf-ball sized chunck of this rock and it promptly commenced disentegrating on my mantle.

 

I have the Falcon Guide I was talking about somewhere in a box, but I was too lazy to get it out to verify the climbing on Twin Peaks. I just remember Twin Peaks being really steep looking from a distance. There are plenty of steep faces in the Willowa Mountains, but I can attest that a lot of them will be loose piles of crap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes Klenke, that's the face I was refering to.

 

The Matterhorn west face is a mix of the crumble stone and solid rock. It has been climbed only once, by Dave Jensen in the early 70's.

 

There is a big mix of stuff out here. Some is crazy loose and some is bomb proof ...and every thing inbetween

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

TG,

 

Rumor has it Beckey sent that too with Heinrich Harrer and Heinrich Himmler during a 3 day effort in 1953
[chubit][big Drink]

You are, no doubt, right again Caveman. [laf]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×