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[TR] Mt Rainier- Ingraham Direct 2/12/2004


Alex_Mineev

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Climb: Mt Rainier-Ingraham Direct

 

Date of Climb: 2/12/2004

 

Trip Report:

Climb: Mt Rainier-Ingraham Direct

 

Date of Climb: 2/12/2004

 

Trip Report:

Excellent weather. Excellent snow. Beautiful mountain.

Started on Wednesday from Paradise, 5 hours slog with heavy packs to Muir hut. Light wind helped a lot, otherwise it would be too hot. Met RMI group of 15+ people preparing to go Ingraham the next day. Initially we planned to camp on Ingraham flats to assess route conditions, but RMI group did crevasse rescue training around flats that day and guides were pretty confident in good conditions. So we decided to stay at Muir and start an hour before them next morning... Which was not the case - I did not hear alarm and we woke late at 3.45. So we left the hut at 5 - about an hour after the crowd (5 teams). Almost full moon was bright enough - we did not use headlamps. Caught up with RMI on the flats. They stayed on the mountain for a few days (RMI winter program?) and were very strong, my guess they get just used to the altitude. Anyway, we climbed a separate line up the Ingragaham ice fall in attempt to pass the groups. While on Ingraham one big block of ice 100 meters to the right fell down. This was 10 minutes after sunrise. Other than that things were very smooth. Wind was worm. Snow was very dense all the way up. No problems with route finding. No big crevasses that we had to walk around... At about 13500 we got slow and behind the two leading RMI teams (the first one was leaded by Geo Dunn smile.gif. Summited at noon, 7 hours sharp from Muir. One hour for pics and rest and 3 hours on the way down.

 

Columbia Crest

35942004-02-12_010-med.JPG

 

My summit shot

35942004-02-12_013-med.JPG

 

My partner, Aaron

35942004-02-12_011-med.JPG

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Almost forgot to mention. Could be useful.

We were driving from paradise after 6.30 and the Longmire gate was closed. There is an inn in Longmire and the guy at lobby knows the code. He wrote 4 digits on a piece of paper and asked to leave credit card while we driving thru the gate. Returned the card after we returned the code cantfocus.gif

I asked how often they change the code - weekly.

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