JoshK Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Has anybody done this in the winter? It looks like a natural winter route, but granted very long. I was looking at it yesterday and it looks like pretty low objective danger the entire way up, since it's a pretty defined ridge. I've never seen it up close, however. Any info appreciated. thanks! -josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I would be very interested if you are looking for a partner on the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I got a great look at it when I was up there earlier this week. I looks sweet. But like you said, LONG, especially the approach. It's basically the same approach I did except then you have to cross the lower Kautz Glacier to reach the cleaver. I should have some pics up in the gallery later tonight. I think I have some that show the Success Cleaver route really well. -Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Some Montana buddies tried it once in March. They approached directly, slogged through wet slop forever, then go stuck in weather for a week...never made it above treeline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I climbed it late in the year, August. Was a literal rock throwing fest. I would think there are a few spots that you would want to move fast and a few chutes that may/may not slide that you need to cross. Route finding without good weather down low sucks. I think the approach will get you in shape for the climb If you do it, post a report, would be very interested in the trials of a winter climb on that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Hey Alasdair, check your PMs. Also, I met a buddy of yours (he mentioned your name at least) up at Camp Muir yesterday. He had a snowboard with him and was with another guy. I've actually got a few shots of him snowboarding that I took while I was up chillin on panorama point. Unfortunately he took a different route than i was expecting, and was farther away, so I didn't have a long enough lens on to get anything great. Anyway, if you think he might be interested, put him in touch with me and I can send him the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girlclimber Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 i was thinking it looks like a great winter route as well. the main problem would be hitting the weather/conditions right, because it's a long one. my dad and i climbed it last year on the Fourth of July weekend. first night spent on top of Pyramid Peak, second at around 10,300 on the cleaver. next day carried over and down the DC to save a looong walk out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Has anybody done this in the winter? It looks like a natural winter route, but granted very long. I seem to remember Dan Davis telling me he did it by himself in winter many years ago. My fuzzy memory is that he chose the route in part to avoid crevasse danger, since he was by himself. If that's correct, he might have descended it as well. Fuzzy, fuzzy ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_Mineev Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Hi Josh, check PMs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying_Ned Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Tried an early May ascent many years ago. Snowshoes, lots of heavy gear, not enough time. It was a long, tiring approach in marginal weather. Went back 2 months later with fewer difficulties. Check Climbergirls post for the best itinerary--though we added a windy summit bivy. The last high camp on the ridge is spectacular and well protected. I would think a winter ascent is free of avalanche worries. Poor snow conditions down low will eat a lot of time, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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